Slowly Working Through the Cruise Control
I don't know why anyone would want to modify the OEM connector vs just cut it completely off and go wire to wire for the C/C to work using the D2 ECU. The D2 Unit is a much more robust unit aka an upgrade to the RRC/D1 unit.
When I had my 98 D1 the C/C went out. I fixed the vacuum lines, swapped pumps, found the brake switch broken so I replaced that, and it worked maybe 2 weeks and died again. Then I found the vacuum ball by the throttle body got a hole in it, replaced that with a good spare I had and it worked again for another 2 months then it totally went out again. I went to a pick n pull yard, grabbed the D2 harness and ECU for 10.00.
I read all the mods by soldering and hacking up the old unit to run the new unit and said to myself if I'm going to do this I'm going to permanently switch over to the D2 unit and never go back to the older unit.I cut off the OEM harness, matched up the wires, used 3M butt connectors, and the C/C worked flawless for the 3 years I owned that D1.
When I had my 98 D1 the C/C went out. I fixed the vacuum lines, swapped pumps, found the brake switch broken so I replaced that, and it worked maybe 2 weeks and died again. Then I found the vacuum ball by the throttle body got a hole in it, replaced that with a good spare I had and it worked again for another 2 months then it totally went out again. I went to a pick n pull yard, grabbed the D2 harness and ECU for 10.00.
I read all the mods by soldering and hacking up the old unit to run the new unit and said to myself if I'm going to do this I'm going to permanently switch over to the D2 unit and never go back to the older unit.I cut off the OEM harness, matched up the wires, used 3M butt connectors, and the C/C worked flawless for the 3 years I owned that D1.
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