steering rebuild
steering rebuild
so I've got crummy tie rod ends and some wobblage going on. I've decided before I get a lift and the goodies I need to be able to steer, genius right? 
okay okay to start new:
tie rods: 4 (3 rh thread; 1 lh thread) maybe HD track rod too
clamp set: 5 (one for each tie rod end + 1 for drop arm?)
power steering box to reservoir hose
power steering pump to reservoir hose
drop arm from power steering box w/lock washer and screw (does this normally need replacing? How do I tell? I'm at 155k miles now)
steering dampener relocation along with a d90 conversion
panhard rod w/bushings
am I missing much? Guys recommend any other parts?
Check these too, if you are new to the thread
Obviously your ball joints (tie rod ends) are bad. But it could be (probably is) also any combination of:
Steering shaft u-joint loose on shaft or steering gearbox (least likely)
Internal play in steering gearbox (adjusting nut on top)
Loose pitman arm
Loose steering box mounting bolts (or any other loose bolts in the steering system)
Ball joints (you're addressing)
Panhard rod fixings/bushings (Not directly connected to steering, but centralizes axle with chassis to prevent relative side to side movement)
Loose wheel bearings
Swivel pin preload
okay okay to start new:
tie rods: 4 (3 rh thread; 1 lh thread) maybe HD track rod too
clamp set: 5 (one for each tie rod end + 1 for drop arm?)
power steering box to reservoir hose
power steering pump to reservoir hose
drop arm from power steering box w/lock washer and screw (does this normally need replacing? How do I tell? I'm at 155k miles now)
steering dampener relocation along with a d90 conversion
panhard rod w/bushings
am I missing much? Guys recommend any other parts?
Check these too, if you are new to the thread
Obviously your ball joints (tie rod ends) are bad. But it could be (probably is) also any combination of:
Steering shaft u-joint loose on shaft or steering gearbox (least likely)
Internal play in steering gearbox (adjusting nut on top)
Loose pitman arm
Loose steering box mounting bolts (or any other loose bolts in the steering system)
Ball joints (you're addressing)
Panhard rod fixings/bushings (Not directly connected to steering, but centralizes axle with chassis to prevent relative side to side movement)
Loose wheel bearings
Swivel pin preload
Last edited by calebbo; Nov 4, 2011 at 09:00 AM.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 107
From: Denver, Colorado
And, while doing the bearings, service your swivels, set the preload and service the diffs at the same time. Don't forget to do the rear wheel bearings at the same so they are not forgotten till they fail.
Oh yeah, I did my wheel bearings along with my rotors a little while back.
When I service my swivels what do you mean? I just added new 00 grease in them last month. And what all do I need to set the preload? I know there are upper and lower swivel pins. But how many do I need? I looked in the rave but I just want to make sure there is only one set (1 upper & 1 lower). Also, I need swivel pin bearing and some shims correct?
When I service my swivels what do you mean? I just added new 00 grease in them last month. And what all do I need to set the preload? I know there are upper and lower swivel pins. But how many do I need? I looked in the rave but I just want to make sure there is only one set (1 upper & 1 lower). Also, I need swivel pin bearing and some shims correct?
Last edited by calebbo; Nov 4, 2011 at 08:18 AM.
Baja
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 52
From: Georgia, USA
See the wonky steering checklist I posted the other day in another thread and go through it.
Unless your ball joint clamps are damaged you don't need to replace them.
Same with the drop arm, it's not a wearing part.
Leave the damper off until you have the steering stability good.
If you're off-roading I'd seriously consider a steering damper relocation kit and conversion to a Defender damper. At the same time you can get rid of the stupid track rod design and go with either a heavy duty one (preferred) or D90 one piece which gets rid of the stupid 3 + 1 ball joint mix.
Unless your ball joint clamps are damaged you don't need to replace them.
Same with the drop arm, it's not a wearing part.
Leave the damper off until you have the steering stability good.
If you're off-roading I'd seriously consider a steering damper relocation kit and conversion to a Defender damper. At the same time you can get rid of the stupid track rod design and go with either a heavy duty one (preferred) or D90 one piece which gets rid of the stupid 3 + 1 ball joint mix.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 227
From: IL
okay okay to start new:
tie rods: 4 (3 rh thread; 1 lh thread) maybe HD track rod too
Wouldn't hurt to HD. Although you don't NEED it. I started off without the HD track rod and upgraded when I bent my stock one. Stock track rods can usually be bent back into shape in the field by running your winchline under your truck and pulling or with your stock bottle jack. However the HD track rod offers piece of mind.
clamp set: 5 (one for each tie rod end + 1 for drop arm?)
What are these for? Can't you re-use the existing clamps?
power steering box to reservoir hose
power steering pump to reservoir hose
drop arm from power steering box w/lock washer and screw (does this normally need replacing? How do I tell? I'm at 155k miles now)
As long as the splines on the drop arm are intact I see no need to replace
steering dampener relocation along with a d90 conversion
If you're going to relocate the steering damper to the drag link you might as well just get the RoverTracks(RovingTracks) HD drag link and relocator kit. You also won't need those clamps for the TRE's
panhard rod w/bushings
What size lift are you going to? If its under 3" your stock panhard should be fine. I run right about a 3" lift and have the RTE panhard rod mainly so it will clear my QT TD5 Defender front diff guard.
tie rods: 4 (3 rh thread; 1 lh thread) maybe HD track rod too
Wouldn't hurt to HD. Although you don't NEED it. I started off without the HD track rod and upgraded when I bent my stock one. Stock track rods can usually be bent back into shape in the field by running your winchline under your truck and pulling or with your stock bottle jack. However the HD track rod offers piece of mind.
clamp set: 5 (one for each tie rod end + 1 for drop arm?)
What are these for? Can't you re-use the existing clamps?
power steering box to reservoir hose
power steering pump to reservoir hose
drop arm from power steering box w/lock washer and screw (does this normally need replacing? How do I tell? I'm at 155k miles now)
As long as the splines on the drop arm are intact I see no need to replace
steering dampener relocation along with a d90 conversion
If you're going to relocate the steering damper to the drag link you might as well just get the RoverTracks(RovingTracks) HD drag link and relocator kit. You also won't need those clamps for the TRE's
panhard rod w/bushings
What size lift are you going to? If its under 3" your stock panhard should be fine. I run right about a 3" lift and have the RTE panhard rod mainly so it will clear my QT TD5 Defender front diff guard.
