Switched to Rotella, changed separator and hoses...more to come, wires and plugs, etc
Really want to pucker?
Engine harness: $2081.94
Y-pipe: $7,914.54
3.9 Crank: $2,629.11
D2 Front Cover: $1,289.00
ABS ECU: $1,049.95
Front Prop Shaft: $1,054.44
D1 Diff: $1,552.92
Of course prices are for new genuine parts. Even MAF can be found for much less in aftermarket brand.
Engine harness: $2081.94
Y-pipe: $7,914.54
3.9 Crank: $2,629.11
D2 Front Cover: $1,289.00
ABS ECU: $1,049.95
Front Prop Shaft: $1,054.44
D1 Diff: $1,552.92
Of course prices are for new genuine parts. Even MAF can be found for much less in aftermarket brand.
I stand humbled and corrected. Perhaps the most expensive sensor under the hood. Bet you could find some muffler shops that would fab a Y pipe for that kind of money in a New York second. Leave MAF for another day and do other things first.
...unbelievable how much smoke that seafoam treatment created...kept coming and coming....does it correlate to how dirty it is in there or is it just the seafoam burning up. wonder if my next one will be as much...glad i didnt do it in MY neighborhood.
....so now it appears that the spark plug socket, matched to the Champion plug that PepBoys gave me is too small to remove the plugs in the truck.
i'm guessing that they gave me a plug for the 3.9 instead of the 4.0?
the plugs i have are RC12MC4 and I think I'm going to need RN11YC4. I'm also confused on the correct RAVE. I seem to have different versions. lucky I have the original manual. let's go check.
Skylar...you're going to have to leave the room now.
i'm guessing that they gave me a plug for the 3.9 instead of the 4.0?
the plugs i have are RC12MC4 and I think I'm going to need RN11YC4. I'm also confused on the correct RAVE. I seem to have different versions. lucky I have the original manual. let's go check.
Skylar...you're going to have to leave the room now.
YUP. Proper Champion Copper Plus plug number is RN11YC4. None in Puerto Rico at Autozone/Advance, PEP Boys or Sears. They tried to sell me some others incl. AutoLite (Chinese) but I said no. I'll need to wait now.
i got that but they gave me the wrong spark plug first along with the socket for that one, not the one i need. now i'm ordering it all online and will have to do it next week.
I just went to the CHampion Website and found the following for the 1995 Discovery:
ChampionSparkplugs.com - Application Search Results
For the 1997 Discovery:
ChampionSparkplugs.com - Application Search Results
The features for the RC12MC4 are as listed:
14mm Thread Size, 19mm (3/4") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor, Copper Core, Projected Core Nose, Heat Range 12
The RN11YC4 features are:
14mm Thread Size, 19mm (3/4") Reach, 13/16" (20.6mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor, Copper Core, Projected Tip, Heat Range 11
So the difference are the socket size required for installation (5/8 compared to 13/16) and the heat range (12 compared to 11) and the tip style.
Some other cool stuff from Champion website:
ChampionSparkPlugs.com stocks every spark plug made by Champion SparkPlugs!
Some other info:
A spark plugs’ tip temperature and the voltage necessary to fire the plug are directly affected by the gap setting. Champion sets the gap from the factory for that plugs most popular application. Unfortunately, that plug may have hundreds of applications from automobiles to golf carts. Setting the gap for your particular engine is important as insufficient spark plug gap can cause pre-ignition, detonation and even engine damage. Whereas too much gap can result in a higher rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling and poor fuel economy. Even if the preset gap is supposed to match your motor, it is always best to physically check that the gap is adjusted properly for your motor prior to installation.
For modified motors, proper gapping is essential; gap settings are affected by increased compression, fuel type, turbos, nitrous and high output ignition system. Most experienced tuners know that opening the gap up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency, however, after they have raised compression and installed a turbo, they have to lower the gap (to ensure ignitability in the denser air/fuel mixtures). It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to reopen the gap without misfire.

ChampionSparkplugs.com - Application Search Results
For the 1997 Discovery:
ChampionSparkplugs.com - Application Search Results
The features for the RC12MC4 are as listed:
14mm Thread Size, 19mm (3/4") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor, Copper Core, Projected Core Nose, Heat Range 12
The RN11YC4 features are:
14mm Thread Size, 19mm (3/4") Reach, 13/16" (20.6mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor, Copper Core, Projected Tip, Heat Range 11
So the difference are the socket size required for installation (5/8 compared to 13/16) and the heat range (12 compared to 11) and the tip style.
Some other cool stuff from Champion website:
ChampionSparkPlugs.com stocks every spark plug made by Champion SparkPlugs!
Some other info:
A spark plugs’ tip temperature and the voltage necessary to fire the plug are directly affected by the gap setting. Champion sets the gap from the factory for that plugs most popular application. Unfortunately, that plug may have hundreds of applications from automobiles to golf carts. Setting the gap for your particular engine is important as insufficient spark plug gap can cause pre-ignition, detonation and even engine damage. Whereas too much gap can result in a higher rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling and poor fuel economy. Even if the preset gap is supposed to match your motor, it is always best to physically check that the gap is adjusted properly for your motor prior to installation.
For modified motors, proper gapping is essential; gap settings are affected by increased compression, fuel type, turbos, nitrous and high output ignition system. Most experienced tuners know that opening the gap up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency, however, after they have raised compression and installed a turbo, they have to lower the gap (to ensure ignitability in the denser air/fuel mixtures). It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to reopen the gap without misfire.

Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; Mar 17, 2012 at 04:48 PM.



