Swivel ball greasing tool
Mudding
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 173
Likes: 1
FWIW, I just did this service. I used a tool similar to the one pictured except I did not have a threaded nipple insert on the end -- just a syringe with a vinyl tube. I cranked the wheels to full lock and simply pushed the little clear vinyl tube past the swivel ball inside the housing, and all the grease squeezed in and none squeezed out.
the one-shot tubes should squeeze right in if you crank the wheel and push them past the ***** inside the housing. I used the regular tubes of CV joint grease (CRC), not the Land Rover branded ones so I did not have the one-shot style tube. The CRC tubes are marked by net weight, but I determined they contain about 100ml, so I used four tubes per swivel housing.
My housings do not have drains, but once you've reassembled the swivel housing the first time, it's not hard to do this job and it probably only needs to be done every few years or so.
I read that if you have drains, you can mix 50/50 grease and oil and it will still drain while providing the benefit of not leaking as much past the seals as oil by itself. I think the CV grease is already a moly grease with more gear oil mixed together than regular grease. You could probably make your own with those two ingredients.
the one-shot tubes should squeeze right in if you crank the wheel and push them past the ***** inside the housing. I used the regular tubes of CV joint grease (CRC), not the Land Rover branded ones so I did not have the one-shot style tube. The CRC tubes are marked by net weight, but I determined they contain about 100ml, so I used four tubes per swivel housing.
My housings do not have drains, but once you've reassembled the swivel housing the first time, it's not hard to do this job and it probably only needs to be done every few years or so.
I read that if you have drains, you can mix 50/50 grease and oil and it will still drain while providing the benefit of not leaking as much past the seals as oil by itself. I think the CV grease is already a moly grease with more gear oil mixed together than regular grease. You could probably make your own with those two ingredients.
Last edited by nevada ben; Aug 29, 2011 at 01:55 PM.
I can't find this 00 grease anywhere locally. I tried my Lowes and Home Depot. I made the tool (which is genius by the way) but no grease. Is there any other type of grease I can use or should I just order the 1 shot from Rovah Farm bc it is only like $7. And side question, what kind of grease do you guys use on your drive shafts when you grease the zerks?
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
For zerks I use the synthetic "green" grease, can buy at auto parts store or Tractor Supply, it is water resistant, fertilizer resistant, etc. And it was green before that became the "PC" thing of the moment.
Mudding
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 173
Likes: 1
For bearings and u-joints I use Staplex. For the CV's, use CV joint grease in the blue tube at the auto store -- but you need a lot of it so the one-shot deals are better. I used 8 400mg tubes of CRC (Stalube) CV joint grease, which cost me about $24. If you can get two tubes of one-shot for $14 plus shipping, that's probably better.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 1
That 3600psi that the grease gun claims...not going to happen unless there is resistance.
Like a u-joint that is old and rusty or clogged with dirt.
If you take a grease gun and with no resistance squeeze the handle the grease will just glob out on the end.
The one shots you can get all of the "00" out of, but not the pint bottles and that is what I meant.
Its not a pint, I thought it was.
Like a u-joint that is old and rusty or clogged with dirt.
If you take a grease gun and with no resistance squeeze the handle the grease will just glob out on the end.
The one shots you can get all of the "00" out of, but not the pint bottles and that is what I meant.
Its not a pint, I thought it was.
Snapper..... Gigity.
