Howdy all, I'm new to the Rover scene and have a few questions. I bought a 96 Disco 1 SE7 about a month ago. Has 118k miles on it. Dude who had it before the guy I bought it from seemed to have taken pretty good care of it as both front and rear driveshafts were completely rebuilt with greasable UJs, new spark plugs and cables, and a few other things. Basically, after I found a 60k checklist and started working on it, I found a lot of the stuff had already been done. So, it seems to me it was taken pretty good care of.

I have a a couple of questions. I've been searching for weeks for answers but haven't found anything that helps. I'm not a noob when it comes to mechanic work, but not a professional either. It's more of hobby and I enjoy working on this vehicle. Diagnosing is what I'm having trouble with.

Also, I have downloaded the RAVE manual and it's helped a lot.

1. T-Case engages in all positions, as stiff as it may be, but lights come on and everything for the Diff-Locks. However, when in High it pops out of gear when driving on the high way. It seems to be when going 55-60MPH. What could cause this? It doesn't make any noises or anything when it does, so is it just popping out at the **** and staying in at the case itself? (if that's even possible) I can't find anything in the RAVE about this issue.

2. Transmission doesn't shift from 3rd to 4th and won't downshift to accelerate or go up hill above 55MPH. RAVE says it's valves sticking in the valve body. Is it a bad idea to get some Seafoam Trans Tune and try it to see if it cleans the valve body? Or should I just take it out and clean it or find someone to clean it for me? I'd rather do the work myself as I have all the tools necessary. Also, fluids are still bright pink/red, even from the slight leak at the pan drain plug.

3. There's a whirring noise coming from the dash. Or somewhere, else but it sounds loudest in the front. Gets louder and higher pitched the faster I go. Almost sound like an electric whizzing noise. All I can find from google and the RAVE is it's low fluid or bad transmission filter. Fluid levels are fine so I'm assuming it's a bad filter. Am I correct in assuming this? Could changing the filter have a positive effect on the shifting to 4th and downshifting problem? Or, perhaps, a combo of the Trans Tune then the new filter? Could the whirring and the T-Case problem be related?

4. I have a misfire in Cylinder 2 and random misfires too. I've diagnosed the Cyl. 2 misfire to be a problem with the injector. But, the randoms are puzzling. I installed a new fuel filter and MAF but codes came back. I noticed when I depressurized the fuel system to change the filter that the fuel rail had no pressure in it, as in nothing spewed onto the cloth when I pressed it in. Could the issue be the fuel pump? I have to let the key sit in 1 position and let the pump run for a couple seconds otherwise it'll start rough and idle rough for a little bit.

5. I know this could be way off, but could it all revolve around the misfire issues? As in, could the misfires be affecting the transmission too? I read somewhere that if the computer reads a misfire it'll take limiting actions to prevent further damage. Whether or not this pertains to a 23 year old vehicle or just newer ones, I don't know.

Another thing to note, the cats have been removed. So, maybe there's an issue with the O2 sensors?

Other than those issues the vehicle runs fine and smooth!

I apologize for the long post and multiple questions. I figured it would be easier to put them all in one post than to create multiple posts for each problem. I'm new to forums so if that's against rules, my bad. Thanks for the help!

 

Welcome to the forum.

first things first... although you listed what truck you have, it is most effective to put that info in your 'signature' (pull down the 'user cp' section). Your location can also help. On to your specific questions...

1. It should not 'pop out of gear'. Does it return to neutral (dis-engaged) when this happens? Do you lose power to the wheels?

2. Trans issues can be tricky. The ZF autobox is reasonably reliable. A fluid and filter change is not a bad idea given your symptoms. I'm loath to suggest the sea foam treatment at this point though perhaps later it might be needed.

3. whirring.... could be lots of things but your center diff is becoming a more likely suspect.

4. mis-fire.... the fuel pump is notorious in these rigs. IIRC 96 is a 'cross over' year meaning you may have the AEL (advance evaporative loss) system or perhaps not. Best way to determine this is to check the shape of the charcoal canister in the engine bay. Round=no AEL Rectangle=AEL Pix of the two can be found here https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...02/#post567770

Either way, given the report of low/no fuel pressure, I'd change the pump. There is a difference of pumps based on the AEL determination.

5. possible, but too early to tell. Change trans fluid and filter and fuel pump first. That can all be done for <$150.

 

Walt, thanks for the reply!

I haven't noticed a loss of power when the **** pops out. It doesn't pop back into to anything it just free floats. Which, on a manual transmission shifter I know means it's in neutral, but on my 4WD shifter there's a specific mark for neutral (right above High and right below Low). Does neutral have it's own notch or is free moving neutral? I'm new to the 4WD things. In any case, I'll take it for a spin this weekend (it's at my parents' garage a couple hours away while I work on it) and see if I notice a loss of power to the wheels.

I don't know why I didn't think of the differential in relation to the whirring noise. I plan on servicing the differentials and transfer cases very soon. Maybe that'll fix it, or introduce me to the actual problem that needs fixing.

I was thinking the fuel pump could be the problem! So I'll be replacing that and the tranny filter next then! Wanted to get a second opinion instead of throwing money at parts!

 

I got random misfires on my '97 and found the VSS was giving bad readings. Replaced it and things got better. It would also lose all power at 65 MPH and drop to 30, then run OK. Watching the live data on a scanner for the VSS, the signal was jumping around 20-25 mph. new one only moves about 2-3 mph ( VSS is the speed sensor at the back of the trans where the speedometer gear is on older cars) Bad sensor did not affect the speedometer reading.

 

Update, I took her for a spin today. Got her on the highway and up to 70mph. She does in fact shift to 4th gear, BUT, still doesn't downshift to go uphill or to pass someone if I'm going over 55-60mph. Went to change the transmission filter and found that the exhaust pipes are in the way from the dude before me cutting the cats. So, I have the Seafoam Trans Tune and 2gal of ATF. Should I go ahead and do a Foam and ATF change or wait until I can get someone or a shop to change the filter for me and hold off on the Foam?

The 4WD shifter popped out of place when on the highway (as usual), but I was ready for it. There was no audible sounds nor a loss of power. In fact, this was the first time I've really floored it and I'm pleasantly surprised at the amount of accelerating power she has!

I plan on buying a fuel pump this next week and replacing that next weekend.

 

downshifting is a function of the 'kickdown cable adjustment'.

the workshop manuals can be found in the google drive in my sig

 

I actually came across a couple discussions about the kickdown right after I posted my last reply! Found the section in the RAVE. Gonna fiddle with it next weekend. Thanks!

 

Little update. Fuel pump and all 8 injectors have been replaced. Decided to try these injectors from his thread: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...jectors-47561/. After nearly 100miles they’ve run flawlessly. Engine runs smoother and is more responsive. And there are no misfire codes at all. (Yet, anyway. But I’m hopeful!)

I’ve messed around with the kickdown cable. Went one way with it, nothing, went the other way, still nothing. It’s set back at the RAVE specs. Still won’t downshift from 4th to 3rd after 55mph.

I can pull on it a little and feel it stop with a “click”. Is it engaging or maybe it’s come loose in the transmission? I’m not familiar with it so it could be normal?

4wd shifter hasn’t popped out of place either. Which is weird. Even after going 70 for a little stretch.

 

The transfer case shifter will pop out of it's detent if there's enough drive-line vibration. There is a nylon plastic cage that holds the spring on the end of the shifter, it can crack with age. The whole thing holds pressure against a pivot ball on the shifter shaft. Best of luck getting to it, whole lotta fun. I'd concentrate on drive-line vibration like a screwed motor/trans mount, or out of balance driveshaft, tires out of balance and so on, far easier to check than removing the console........ for a stupid spring cage. I removed the console...... The shifter was wallowing around more than usual is how I discovered the broken spring cage. It popped out of 4 wheel high when slowing down from 55mph consistently.

 

Update

Still having issues with the transfer case shifter popping out of High. I've taken the console apart and taken the top of the linkage off to examine the joints and all. The plastic piece seems to be intact and there's no broken pieces anywhere. I have no idea what to do. I'm assuming it has something to do with the bar that goes down into the transfer case itself and possibly something wrong in the transfer case. Seems weird that every other gear works fine. No grinding noises or weird smells. Just a whirring. I serviced the Diffs and the Case (used a little thicker oil) and there wasn't any metal chunks on the plug magnets. Any other suggestions?

Edit: the entire problem, I’ve found, is the diff lock area. It doesn’t “pop out of gear” as I stated earlier. It stays in Hi it’s just that the lever moves extremely easily from left to right. I’ve made sure everything is tight in the driveline too. It’s like the diff lock mechanism in the case doesn’t want to “lock” or something. The cdl locks, as I can jack one tire up, lock the cdl, and the tire doesn’t rotate. I mean like something isn’t keeping the diff lock mechanism in its place and it’s super easy to move the shifter left out of Hi unlocked. If that make any sense whatsoever. I’m completely clueless at this point.