Tach erratic / Alternator appears ok
Hello-
I know an erratic Tach may mean a bad Alternator but I've had the issue for 2 months and my battery is ok although I NEED to test the alternator myself.
So turning on headlights, honking horn, turn signals will cause the Tach to move up and down, and it never reads more than about 1000 RPM even when on the highway.
It tends to be jerky and perfectly timed with electrical current changes when turning things on and off. It's a '95 Disco I, v8. (i need to fix up my signature I know!)
I know an erratic Tach may mean a bad Alternator but I've had the issue for 2 months and my battery is ok although I NEED to test the alternator myself.
So turning on headlights, honking horn, turn signals will cause the Tach to move up and down, and it never reads more than about 1000 RPM even when on the highway.
It tends to be jerky and perfectly timed with electrical current changes when turning things on and off. It's a '95 Disco I, v8. (i need to fix up my signature I know!)
The tach wire on the back of the alternator is a "flying lead" that pushes on to a metal tab. It does not bolt down (at least on my 97). It sends pulses there, and my frequency meter said about 270 hertz at idle. If alternator is doing the job, battery volts will be between 13.6 and 14.4 at idle, nothing else running. Will drop a little as amp drain increases, but should stay above 13.2 with everything on. Schematic attached, part of the RAVE package.
Mine did that right before the alt went out, Its doing it again. I used my multimeter and batt is fine, disconected the batt with truck running and everything worked. I think mine does it cause of the code 44 I just got.
From what I have been told by others who own a Discovery, you should NEVER DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING!.
I know this was a common practice years ago, if the alternator was bad, the engine would merely die. With todays sensitive electronics, you can create havoc. Bad idea.
My tach bit the dust quite a while back, it works when it wants to.
I know this was a common practice years ago, if the alternator was bad, the engine would merely die. With todays sensitive electronics, you can create havoc. Bad idea.
My tach bit the dust quite a while back, it works when it wants to.
If tachometer is indeed all that is dead, and battery is charging corectly -
Does vehicle have an OBDII port to plug in a scanner, I'm not sure when/if Gulf vehicles got that. If it does, you have a $69 fix from Ultra Gauge, that will give you lots of gauge displays, plus code reader scanner.
Does vehicle have an OBDII port to plug in a scanner, I'm not sure when/if Gulf vehicles got that. If it does, you have a $69 fix from Ultra Gauge, that will give you lots of gauge displays, plus code reader scanner.
My tach continues to get more eratic, behaves like a bad solder joint. Does not want to work in the cold, gets erratic and suddenly sprigs to life, drops suddenly if I let off the gas, jumps a little, then runs fine for however long it decides to. It works as little as I do>>>>
The tach wire on the back of the alternator is a "flying lead" that pushes on to a metal tab. It does not bolt down (at least on my 97). It sends pulses there, and my frequency meter said about 270 hertz at idle. If alternator is doing the job, battery volts will be between 13.6 and 14.4 at idle, nothing else running. Will drop a little as amp drain increases, but should stay above 13.2 with everything on. Schematic attached, part of the RAVE package.
If tachometer is indeed all that is dead, and battery is charging corectly -
Does vehicle have an OBDII port to plug in a scanner, I'm not sure when/if Gulf vehicles got that. If it does, you have a $69 fix from Ultra Gauge, that will give you lots of gauge displays, plus code reader scanner.
Does vehicle have an OBDII port to plug in a scanner, I'm not sure when/if Gulf vehicles got that. If it does, you have a $69 fix from Ultra Gauge, that will give you lots of gauge displays, plus code reader scanner.


