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Tires/Power Loss Question

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  #11  
Old 02-04-2013, 05:07 PM
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I'm going to be installing a TF 2" lift with poly bushings and 255/70/16's.

Chris
 
  #12  
Old 02-04-2013, 05:53 PM
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I had 255/70 before. I'd go 245/75. Better steering, mpg, strength, traction, and availability. To be more specific, I'd go 245/75 Duratracs for most off-road situations.
 
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by EricTyrrell
I had 255/70 before. I'd go 245/75. Better steering, mpg, strength, traction, and availability. To be more specific, I'd go 245/75 Duratracs for most off-road situations.
I hav 235/75/16's A/Ts on my Castors and were new from when I bought my truck last month.. I wanted to go a bit bigger since the price difference between the 2 (245/75's and 255/70's) are on point and being the 255's were wider and not taller than my 235/75's, I'd keep the same MPG, plus my newer rims in the house are 16x8's

Chris
 
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Old 02-04-2013, 11:20 PM
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I ran 255/70s on stock suspension. I liked them
 
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:18 AM
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235/85/16 GY DuraTracs For The Win!
 
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by fishEH
235/85/16 GY DuraTracs For The Win!
Yup.

Tires/Power Loss Question-img_0967.jpg
 
  #17  
Old 02-05-2013, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by fishEH
Not really. A 2" shouldn't require a DC shaft. If you start adding spacers on top of the lift then yeah you'll need a DC.

Go with the 235/85/16. They'll stuff better and won't rub the radius arms. Yes you'll lose some acceleration and a couple mpg's.
What lift do you have?
This matches my experience. With 2" and under, the stock driveshaft works fine. Even with more than 2" lift you can still use a single cardon driveshaft but it does have to be longer than stock. I actually have a DC but I can see by the angles that it's totally unnecessary, but I needed the extra length and it came with the DC so I didn't complain. A single-cardon is stronger and more durable unless it's at too much of an angle for its design.

For 32's you want to regear. You don't have to, but you'll want to sooner or later. If you take it offroad, you'll break the 2 pin carrier and eventually you will break the axle shaft as well. It's not that the 32's will pop the axles because you're suddenly exceeding their ultimate strength with the 32's. No. But the 32's, in off-road conditions are going to push the yield limit of the axle again and again until at some point the axle will give way fairly easily. You can plan to put stock shafts in every year or two or upgrade. But if you don't upgrade the carrier it won't be as simple as swapping shafts out.
 
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by binvanna
For 32's you want to regear. You don't have to, but you'll want to sooner or later.
Which is why 245/75 is also a good option. A little taller and wider, but not detrimental.

Originally Posted by binvanna
If you take it offroad, you'll break the 2 pin carrier and eventually you will break the axle shaft as well. It's not that the 32's will pop the axles because you're suddenly exceeding their ultimate strength with the 32's. No. But the 32's, in off-road conditions are going to push the yield limit of the axle again and again until at some point the axle will give way fairly easily. You can plan to put stock shafts in every year or two or upgrade. But if you don't upgrade the carrier it won't be as simple as swapping shafts out.
I don't agree with this, unless you're being reckless. Drive "as slow as possible, as fast as necessary."
 
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by EricTyrrell
Which is why 245/75 is also a good option. A little taller and wider, but not detrimental.



I don't agree with this, unless you're being reckless. Drive "as slow as possible, as fast as necessary."
It doesn't take recklessness to break shafts. Quite the opposite. You will have a very hard time breaking new shafts with reckless driving, but with careful driving over time you will keep twisting the axle past its yield limit. You won't break it because you did some yahoo cowboy action. You'll just keep twisting far enough that when it returns there's a little bit more plastic deformation, and eventually the ultimate limit will be lowered to the point where it snaps quite easily. The 32's are enough that you will twist the axle past the yield limit possibly many times in the course of very rational offroad driving. They will exceed the yield limit even more often with a locker.
 
  #20  
Old 02-05-2013, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by binvanna
This matches my experience. With 2" and under, the stock driveshaft works fine. Even with more than 2" lift you can still use a single cardon driveshaft but it does have to be longer than stock. I actually have a DC but I can see by the angles that it's totally unnecessary, but I needed the extra length and it came with the DC so I didn't complain. A single-cardon is stronger and more durable unless it's at too much of an angle for its design.

For 32's you want to regear. You don't have to, but you'll want to sooner or later. If you take it offroad, you'll break the 2 pin carrier and eventually you will break the axle shaft as well. It's not that the 32's will pop the axles because you're suddenly exceeding their ultimate strength with the 32's. No. But the 32's, in off-road conditions are going to push the yield limit of the axle again and again until at some point the axle will give way fairly easily. You can plan to put stock shafts in every year or two or upgrade. But if you don't upgrade the carrier it won't be as simple as swapping shafts out.

I'm staring at my offset steel wheels right now with 265/75's Michelins mounted in the garage. I don't think those tires will make it onto the truck.. They are the same rolling diameter which is on my other truck, (non LR) 265/70/17's highway. If I can't find aggressive 255/70's, I'll go with the 245/75/16's are they are easier to get a hold of.

Chris
 


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