Transfer Case, the final showdown
Okay guys, T-Case one last time. I have it open for all to see since I never put the cover back on since last time. Now, I have tried to PB Blast the **** like a 6 year old with a new super soaker, and I have tried to twist that yoke thing clockwise and counter clock wise, still no go.
QUESTIONS:
1) Should I just buy a working T-Case for about $300 shipped to me
1a) I should probably get a shop to install this huh?
or
2) Just go to Rovers North and just individually buy the "Transfer Gearbox - Differential Controls" parts and rebuild it that way?
2a) wouldn't I still need to pull it out to rebuild it or can I do it from that top opening in the Rover?
QUESTIONS:
1) Should I just buy a working T-Case for about $300 shipped to me
1a) I should probably get a shop to install this huh?
or
2) Just go to Rovers North and just individually buy the "Transfer Gearbox - Differential Controls" parts and rebuild it that way?
2a) wouldn't I still need to pull it out to rebuild it or can I do it from that top opening in the Rover?
Last edited by calebbo; Sep 2, 2011 at 10:03 AM.
You can get to all the linkage parts with the console removed. I did mine that way. The top box will unbolt, you can take it off and take it inside to a workbench for cleaning and replace parts as needed.
I do not understand why you cannot rotate the lower selector plate by putting a socket on the center nut and turning it. CCW rotation will engage the diff lock, CW will disengage it. Oh yeah, you probably do not have the arm strength to move it. Get that fat farm girl you know to do it for you.
Have fun with it.
I do not understand why you cannot rotate the lower selector plate by putting a socket on the center nut and turning it. CCW rotation will engage the diff lock, CW will disengage it. Oh yeah, you probably do not have the arm strength to move it. Get that fat farm girl you know to do it for you.
Have fun with it.
I figured that since he was almost done in by drilling out the rivets, maybe a good old fat farm girl or Winter Woman may have to step in and turn the wrench for him. Especially sinnce it does not have any cell phone app or other new fangled stuff to take care of it for the kid.
Haha very funny, I had problems with the rivets my bad no need to remind me everytime you talk to me on here! Just kidding I don't care haha.
I did turn the stupid nut.. it doesn't do anything as far as I can tell. And when I turn it one way I also try to pull the **** to the left into one of the locked positions.. no go.
Okay so I can just unbolt that top part and take off that long metal track that connects the **** to the "turn yoke thing" and pull it out to work on? Will I still be able to drive or no? I need to review your pics fashowww..
So when you say the thing should turn do you mean This or THIS
because I turn the first one CW till it feels tight and moves this metal piece and im afraid to tighten more because I might damage something.
I did turn the stupid nut.. it doesn't do anything as far as I can tell. And when I turn it one way I also try to pull the **** to the left into one of the locked positions.. no go.
Okay so I can just unbolt that top part and take off that long metal track that connects the **** to the "turn yoke thing" and pull it out to work on? Will I still be able to drive or no? I need to review your pics fashowww..
So when you say the thing should turn do you mean This or THIS
because I turn the first one CW till it feels tight and moves this metal piece and im afraid to tighten more because I might damage something.
Last edited by calebbo; Sep 4, 2011 at 02:22 PM.
CCW as to loosen the nut should move the shifter and the selector plate to the locked position, that did it for me.
When I took the top section off of mine, I did not attempt to drive it, but I do not see why you could not drive it like that if you needed to. What could it affect?
When I took the top section off of mine, I did not attempt to drive it, but I do not see why you could not drive it like that if you needed to. What could it affect?
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