Transfer case knock when coasting
I've changed the oil last summer for 75w90 Castrol synthetic. The old oil looked ok.
Will get the cover off to have a look when i get a chance.
did some tests tonight and found out this only happens if i accelerate and abruptly take the foot ofthe gas pedal. Taking the foot off when cruising does nothing.
I also shifted the transfer case in low and locked it, ran a few hundred feet and put it back in normal high. Had run reverse For 20 feet and run forward again to unwind it (diff lock light would stay on). The transfer case shifter is a bit stiff but is since I bought it last year. Could it be caused by improper (uncomplete) shifting?
Will get the cover off to have a look when i get a chance.
did some tests tonight and found out this only happens if i accelerate and abruptly take the foot ofthe gas pedal. Taking the foot off when cruising does nothing.
I also shifted the transfer case in low and locked it, ran a few hundred feet and put it back in normal high. Had run reverse For 20 feet and run forward again to unwind it (diff lock light would stay on). The transfer case shifter is a bit stiff but is since I bought it last year. Could it be caused by improper (uncomplete) shifting?
Jull,
I see that the teeth are blueish on your picture. How did this happen? Lack of oil or abuse of some sort? Doesnt seem that bad though. Is it busted or only noisy?
I see that the teeth are blueish on your picture. How did this happen? Lack of oil or abuse of some sort? Doesnt seem that bad though. Is it busted or only noisy?
It is hard to see the details in the picture. I would think discoloration would be from extreme heat which could be caused by low fluid levels for extended time frame.
These are often overlooked until a big problem occurs.
As far as the shifter being difficult to shift from lock to unlock, that is pretty common due to the linkage being exposed to the elements from underneath. To properly address the linkage, you pretty much have to remove the console and drill out the factory rivets holding the rubber cover in place. Set it aside for reuse later. Do not cut the rubber or you will ruin it.
The light is controlled by a switch mounted on the transfer case. It has a plunger that the yoke pushes in when the diff is physically locked. The switch does also go bad (Mine did), if the light is staying on after the Diff is physically unlocked, that is a sign that the plunger is sticking and will soon fail.
If you click on the link in my signature you will find photo albums with lots of pictures of my complete teardown and reassy. Mine now shifts smooth as butter.
Also do a search and you will find lots of previous replies where I have provided detaileds info. Go to the Rover's North website and look at the illustrated parrts breakdown and you will see all the piece parts that make up the entire linkage and the prices of all the little parts.
These are often overlooked until a big problem occurs.
As far as the shifter being difficult to shift from lock to unlock, that is pretty common due to the linkage being exposed to the elements from underneath. To properly address the linkage, you pretty much have to remove the console and drill out the factory rivets holding the rubber cover in place. Set it aside for reuse later. Do not cut the rubber or you will ruin it.
The light is controlled by a switch mounted on the transfer case. It has a plunger that the yoke pushes in when the diff is physically locked. The switch does also go bad (Mine did), if the light is staying on after the Diff is physically unlocked, that is a sign that the plunger is sticking and will soon fail.
If you click on the link in my signature you will find photo albums with lots of pictures of my complete teardown and reassy. Mine now shifts smooth as butter.
Also do a search and you will find lots of previous replies where I have provided detaileds info. Go to the Rover's North website and look at the illustrated parrts breakdown and you will see all the piece parts that make up the entire linkage and the prices of all the little parts.
Nope, this is my own old transfer box when I took it out. The photo isn't clear but there are chunks missing on some gears. I don't know what happened, I bought it in that condition. Maybe the previous owner ran it with low oil level for countless miles. There was a busted part within it because it was acting like CDL was always on but wasn't. The blue is whether cooked gears or the royal purple stuff the previous owner put in. But I doubt about the royal purple because I flushed and refilled it before swapping it out.
Last edited by Jull; May 26, 2011 at 06:22 AM.
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Philhowe
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