Transfer case troubles
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 820
Likes: 46
From: SF Bay, California
I had a similar running with my T-Case, thing is that I've neglected checking its fluid for nearly 4 yrs, and I don't know when the previous owner did. Thing is that in my case (2002 Disco S2) was making a clunking noise when turning into parking spaces, and ultimately on highway, after things warmed up. This weekend I went under and removed filler and drain plug, drain took more muscle to loosen up. Plug came out with a fair amount of shavings and a bit less than 2 oz of really dark oil (you can see pics on my post). Filled it up with Lucas 75W-90, and planning to drain a refill again this coming weekend. The service plate you mentioned seem to have been removed at some point, you can clearly see that one bolt might had broken and a stud was bolted in to fix, and you can also see some hardened gray sealant squeezed out, so definitely some fix had been done. Now truck runs like it never had that clunking noise. Everything is pretty much dirty, but there is an oil leak from the rear main seal I suppose, so not sure if T-Case is actually leaking, but will be on the look out. Shall I take these inputs to apply in my case, even the heavier oil recommendation? Thanks.
Good luck.
Winching
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 679
Likes: 21
From: South Florida
You definitely should not use 75w-90. It's just too thin. 80W-90 and 85w-140 are better options. In your case, I would use 85W-140 because there might actually be some damage in the transfer case and a heavier oil will help. Put in a bottle of stop leak and change the fluid to a heavier weight and you should be in better shape.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 820
Likes: 46
From: SF Bay, California
Valvoline is usually around $20 a gallon which is cheap. If I can't find it, then I'll go for Lucas or Castrol.
If your gonna go for the recommended 30k mile interval, use a synthetic oil. My LR only sees about 5000 miles a year (more or less) and I usually change the diff fluid once a year because I do take my LR off road but also because it's easier to keep track of the differential maintenance if I change the fluid once a year. The oil is cheap enough and the procedure is easy too. So I just use conventional fluid because my interval is so short. Quite unnecessary, but I just like doing it this way.
If you are going to buy a gallon, make sure to also get a quart container because the fluid pumps fit in those a lot better than the gallon containers.
Any name brand should be adequate in all honesty. My main recommendations are to use the correct viscosity and avoid store brand oil (like the O'Reilly one).
Thread Starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 258
Likes: 16
Ok. Made some progress on this subject.
Been taking forever due to torrential rains and flooding we've been experiencing here. I wish I had a garage...anyways....
I put the new u joints in the rear driveshaft and reinstalled it. That's done. I'm one nut away from getting the front shaft out and then I'll take that on tomorrow. I did discover the front u joint on the front shaft is shot so that was my problem. Replaced all the differentials oil and resealed my leaking inspection cover plate on the t case. Waiting to last possible minute to refill that as it won't hurt to let the rtv dry thoroughly. I ended up using the one made specifically for gear oil. See how it goes....
Quick question:
When putting the blue devil sealant in the t case how much of the bottle did y'all use? Whole bottle?
Also I noticed after I undid the front shaft at the differential that the t case yoke has some play. I can maybe move it about 5 degrees or so by hand, +/-, is that normal. In Park, unlocked High range.
BTW my rear u joints were a total bitch. Clamps and vises were useless. Small sledge was the ONLY solution. My personal LR Adjustment Tool.
Been taking forever due to torrential rains and flooding we've been experiencing here. I wish I had a garage...anyways....
I put the new u joints in the rear driveshaft and reinstalled it. That's done. I'm one nut away from getting the front shaft out and then I'll take that on tomorrow. I did discover the front u joint on the front shaft is shot so that was my problem. Replaced all the differentials oil and resealed my leaking inspection cover plate on the t case. Waiting to last possible minute to refill that as it won't hurt to let the rtv dry thoroughly. I ended up using the one made specifically for gear oil. See how it goes....
Quick question:
When putting the blue devil sealant in the t case how much of the bottle did y'all use? Whole bottle?
Also I noticed after I undid the front shaft at the differential that the t case yoke has some play. I can maybe move it about 5 degrees or so by hand, +/-, is that normal. In Park, unlocked High range.
BTW my rear u joints were a total bitch. Clamps and vises were useless. Small sledge was the ONLY solution. My personal LR Adjustment Tool.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 820
Likes: 46
From: SF Bay, California
Ok. Made some progress on this subject.
Been taking forever due to torrential rains and flooding we've been experiencing here. I wish I had a garage...anyways....
I put the new u joints in the rear driveshaft and reinstalled it. That's done. I'm one nut away from getting the front shaft out and then I'll take that on tomorrow. I did discover the front u joint on the front shaft is shot so that was my problem. Replaced all the differentials oil and resealed my leaking inspection cover plate on the t case. Waiting to last possible minute to refill that as it won't hurt to let the rtv dry thoroughly. I ended up using the one made specifically for gear oil. See how it goes....
Quick question:
When putting the blue devil sealant in the t case how much of the bottle did y'all use? Whole bottle?
Also I noticed after I undid the front shaft at the differential that the t case yoke has some play. I can maybe move it about 5 degrees or so by hand, +/-, is that normal. In Park, unlocked High range.
BTW my rear u joints were a total bitch. Clamps and vises were useless. Small sledge was the ONLY solution. My personal LR Adjustment Tool.
Been taking forever due to torrential rains and flooding we've been experiencing here. I wish I had a garage...anyways....
I put the new u joints in the rear driveshaft and reinstalled it. That's done. I'm one nut away from getting the front shaft out and then I'll take that on tomorrow. I did discover the front u joint on the front shaft is shot so that was my problem. Replaced all the differentials oil and resealed my leaking inspection cover plate on the t case. Waiting to last possible minute to refill that as it won't hurt to let the rtv dry thoroughly. I ended up using the one made specifically for gear oil. See how it goes....
Quick question:
When putting the blue devil sealant in the t case how much of the bottle did y'all use? Whole bottle?
Also I noticed after I undid the front shaft at the differential that the t case yoke has some play. I can maybe move it about 5 degrees or so by hand, +/-, is that normal. In Park, unlocked High range.
BTW my rear u joints were a total bitch. Clamps and vises were useless. Small sledge was the ONLY solution. My personal LR Adjustment Tool.
Backlash in the diffs is normal so don't worry about it.
Winching
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 679
Likes: 21
From: South Florida
Honesty, I'm not too particular on brand for gear oil. I usually use Castrol, Lucas Oil, or Valvoline.
Valvoline is usually around $20 a gallon which is cheap. If I can't find it, then I'll go for Lucas or Castrol.
If your gonna go for the recommended 30k mile interval, use a synthetic oil. My LR only sees about 5000 miles a year (more or less) and I usually change the diff fluid once a year because I do take my LR off road but also because it's easier to keep track of the differential maintenance if I change the fluid once a year. The oil is cheap enough and the procedure is easy too. So I just use conventional fluid because my interval is so short. Quite unnecessary, but I just like doing it this way.
If you are going to buy a gallon, make sure to also get a quart container because the fluid pumps fit in those a lot better than the gallon containers.
Any name brand should be adequate in all honesty. My main recommendations are to use the correct viscosity and avoid store brand oil (like the O'Reilly one).
Valvoline is usually around $20 a gallon which is cheap. If I can't find it, then I'll go for Lucas or Castrol.
If your gonna go for the recommended 30k mile interval, use a synthetic oil. My LR only sees about 5000 miles a year (more or less) and I usually change the diff fluid once a year because I do take my LR off road but also because it's easier to keep track of the differential maintenance if I change the fluid once a year. The oil is cheap enough and the procedure is easy too. So I just use conventional fluid because my interval is so short. Quite unnecessary, but I just like doing it this way.
If you are going to buy a gallon, make sure to also get a quart container because the fluid pumps fit in those a lot better than the gallon containers.
Any name brand should be adequate in all honesty. My main recommendations are to use the correct viscosity and avoid store brand oil (like the O'Reilly one).
Crawled underneath my truck to start working; filler and drain plugs gave a bit of work to loosen up once more; filler one is kinda tricky to get to, since the brake drum gets in the way, and drain plug came out after using and extension on the wrench, for more leverage. No apparent signs of leakage was seen, although this past week rained cats and dogs here in Broward county (SoFla) as well, and truck had to go thru a lot of flooded streets, and I mean "FLOODED", so undercarriage had a nice bath!
Fluid drained came out very, very dark, and it was only a week of use! can't imagine after 30k miles! Viscosity was pretty much as it was when it went in though, maybe a bit thicker? Very little to none metal shavings or particles, so hopefully most of the big chunks came out on the previous drain. Did see a lot of "metal-dust", if you may; drain plug came out with nice amount of gunk, and what I can describe as very, very short hair-like metal, since it was hard to clean off the magnet (look at the pics).
I poured the old oil into a gallon jug, and what was left on the oil drain pan did feel more sediment-like, and it was like a two color liquid; a very dark black tone, and a dark chocolaty too (look at the pics).
I'm posting some pics so you can see how this second drain went, and receive any feedback as to if it would be advisable to do a third drain a week from now? would it help to get rid of more gunk and metal shavings? and get things cleaner in there, especially now that it will be running with a thicker oil?
I'll be looking for your inputs, thanks!
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 820
Likes: 46
From: SF Bay, California
...thanks DiscoCam! I had already decided to drain-n-refill after a week, assuming that it would help cleaning and getting rid of more shavings and gunk inside the t-case; so bought 85W-140 for the refill, and went again for the Lucas brand (under $8 at AAP).
Crawled underneath my truck to start working; filler and drain plugs gave a bit of work to loosen up once more; filler one is kinda tricky to get to, since the brake drum gets in the way, and drain plug came out after using and extension on the wrench, for more leverage. No apparent signs of leakage was seen, although this past week rained cats and dogs here in Broward county (SoFla) as well, and truck had to go thru a lot of flooded streets, and I mean "FLOODED", so undercarriage had a nice bath!
Fluid drained came out very, very dark, and it was only a week of use! can't imagine after 30k miles! Viscosity was pretty much as it was when it went in though, maybe a bit thicker? Very little to none metal shavings or particles, so hopefully most of the big chunks came out on the previous drain. Did see a lot of "metal-dust", if you may; drain plug came out with nice amount of gunk, and what I can describe as very, very short hair-like metal, since it was hard to clean off the magnet (look at the pics).
I poured the old oil into a gallon jug, and what was left on the oil drain pan did feel more sediment-like, and it was like a two color liquid; a very dark black tone, and a dark chocolaty too (look at the pics).
I'm posting some pics so you can see how this second drain went, and receive any feedback as to if it would be advisable to do a third drain a week from now? would it help to get rid of more gunk and metal shavings? and get things cleaner in there, especially now that it will be running with a thicker oil?
I'll be looking for your inputs, thanks!
Crawled underneath my truck to start working; filler and drain plugs gave a bit of work to loosen up once more; filler one is kinda tricky to get to, since the brake drum gets in the way, and drain plug came out after using and extension on the wrench, for more leverage. No apparent signs of leakage was seen, although this past week rained cats and dogs here in Broward county (SoFla) as well, and truck had to go thru a lot of flooded streets, and I mean "FLOODED", so undercarriage had a nice bath!
Fluid drained came out very, very dark, and it was only a week of use! can't imagine after 30k miles! Viscosity was pretty much as it was when it went in though, maybe a bit thicker? Very little to none metal shavings or particles, so hopefully most of the big chunks came out on the previous drain. Did see a lot of "metal-dust", if you may; drain plug came out with nice amount of gunk, and what I can describe as very, very short hair-like metal, since it was hard to clean off the magnet (look at the pics).
I poured the old oil into a gallon jug, and what was left on the oil drain pan did feel more sediment-like, and it was like a two color liquid; a very dark black tone, and a dark chocolaty too (look at the pics).
I'm posting some pics so you can see how this second drain went, and receive any feedback as to if it would be advisable to do a third drain a week from now? would it help to get rid of more gunk and metal shavings? and get things cleaner in there, especially now that it will be running with a thicker oil?
I'll be looking for your inputs, thanks!
Thread Starter
|
Rock Crawling
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 258
Likes: 16
I'm in Davie, where you at? And YES this rain has been killing me on getting my repairs done. As I type is pouring down like crazy, flooding up again...never ending...
Winching
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 679
Likes: 21
From: South Florida
I'm in Weston ROB99DISCOSD, last week was crazy, Plantation got hit hard. I'll take it easy this weekend with the truck, but next week I'll do a third drain and fill, hopefully much less gunk and shavings will come out. How is your repair coming along?
Thread Starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 258
Likes: 16
KNOCK ON WOOD, but, I'm finished. Just letting some thread sealant on my rear differential tack up a bit and I'll give her a test drive. I'm fortunate that my t case looked pretty decent inside. Actually like new. So I only had to reseal the inspection plate and use new bolts. Put the stop leak in too with new oil. Replaced all 4 u joints and replaced all diff fluids. So basically an almost full driveline maintenance. Next month it'll be the tranny fluid and filter. It's way over due. That and new coolant lines, tranny and engine. And an oil change. That'll prob be it for me until the fall. Too damn hot, too much rain, and too many effin mosquitos. SoFla sucks.
