Thanks for the info Savannah, that's another item I can look into with all my spare time. That sounds like a worthwhile project.

 

Get over myself? Who the hell do YOU think you are to say that?

Why should I help anyone who just called me an *******? Why help someone who says certs mean nothing? This is exactly why I don't bother posting on oil threads, because everyone has their opinion and wants to be the only one who is right.

Go listen to "rover tech" whoever that is. Apparently he has seen everything. I've been rebuilding the ZF4HP22 since 1986, Rover didn't even use that trans until '87 in the RR.

Most likely the governor rings are bad, which is why the unit will shift AFTER it has warmed up, if it was metal causing the issue it would shift cold and hang up once everything expanded. The rings are rubber, square profile (lathe cut). I have seen several with rings so hard they grooved the case. Mid '80's Saabs had similar governor ring issues, I have fixed hundreds of older Saabs that shifter 1-2 and wouldn't go to 3rd by replacing governore housing rings. There is a product out that really does work to fix sticky valves in the governor and valve body. It's the plain jane LubeGuard (sp?) Not the special additive for japanese cars or anything, just the plain one marked fluid conditioner. This stuff also works to get rid of torque converter apply chatter found on many american cars. We used to use the same whale oil stuff that was used in posi rear ends until the supply ran out.

If you were going to use a tap in the fluid line to remove all the old fluid you would still need to devise a way to pump fresh fluid into the line running back to the trans. The cooled oil returning to the trans is forced lubrication for the unit and even in neutral the torque converter will be turning the unit over from the drag caused by the fluid in it.

A filter system designed for hydraulics would probably suffice, but you would need to use a filter for hydraulic oil. A regular engine oil filter may not flow enough when the fluid is cold, and there would be no bypass unless it was built into the housing the filter goes on.

 

Thanks, Higgs. I always thought it would be good to have an easy way to valve off a quart, and pour in a new quart (works on a D1, PITA on a D2). You are certainly correct that filter choice would have to be something designed for that, with filter case rated for the PSI and bypass valve at correct rating. A regular truck oil filter would stay in bypass just about all the time, so no filtering. Seem like factories go out of their way to make it more difficult. The Kia folks use a Mitsubishi transmission that has a fitting for external filter top mounted, but Kia decides to put the battery box there, goes with an internal filter, so you have to drop the tranny to change the filter on the minivans. Not a lot of them get changed. Do wish more builders made things where they could be cheaply serviced by anyone. Seems like everything is focused on making it where dealer only can touch it. Perhaps that will increase the value of the old one that can still be tinkered with.

As for certification, years of experience, etc.; those certainly help for the folks that walk thu the doors at your shop. For the hundreds of others who may read this post now and in future years, the more info you can provide will increase the silent thanks you get from other members around the world in some cases. If you keep all that knowledge in your head, only your customers will benefit.

 

I don't think you are an ******* I just think what you said " I am not obligated to educate anyone" was somewhat of a big headed statement and totally unnecessary.. anyways Thank you for your input.. I value any knowledge anyone is willing to share on this forum...

 

1. I did not call you a *******.
2. No one asked you to join a forum designed to help one another out. You chose to.
3. Who am I? Just a land rover owner who enjoys helping fellow enthusiasts out at NO CHARGE, which includes not boosting my EGO. I also happen to be a 23 year VW/Audi veteran technician.


Do I know what you know about ZF transmissions? Probably not. But I sure as hell know how to use my computer and fellow technicians knowledge to figure it out. No one deserves to be treated like they are stupid just because you want your ego boosted. Help, don't help, I for one don't care.

 

Yeah, I didn't specify that point. It should be easy to find a hydraulic fluid filter that will spin onto the oil filter housing.
If you go this route, make sure to get the right filter, one designed for hydraulic fluid.

 

Adapter:
Oil Filter Adapter, Left Side Exit • So Cal Imports
Hydraulic filter:
NAPA PROLink
or:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BAL...ML6?Pid=search

 

I'm not positive, but those filters appear to meet the specs. Best thing to do would be to get the adapter you want, then go into a parts store with it and the Baldwin filter #BT8301 and then see if the filter they have fits the adapter. Mainly you are checking to make sure the gasket mates with the gasket surface. The threads will match.

 

It would be ideal to have the filter in the line that feeds the cooler, catching debris before it hits the cooler. That way there is no way it can start to plug up the small passages.

No more customers for me. I took a union job that pays better and I do less work.

 

It will be interesting to see what could be done with a combination of knowledge, effort, and good ole boy ingenuity.

When does the Mud Wraslin begin?