I do remember my T-case Drain plug was rather stubborn, but I did manage to get it out.

One "trick" I was taught in the Navy working on aircraft was to turn it ever so slightly in a tightening direction would break the torque on stubborn fasteners. If you can get it to tighten just a little more, it will then unscrew easily.

Also a rythmic tapping with a hammer squarely on the head of the drain bolt will vibrate the drain bolt and aid in the removal process or a rthymic tapping with the hammer on the breaker bar.

Or take it to the Jiffy Lube like Spike said.

 

One last question, on the t-case drain plug there were metal shavings. I would not say a lot of them, but enough to ask if that is normal, or am i looking forward to a bigger problem? Also, got the t-case fill plug out, so i will be able to refill it. Thanks again for the help.

 

Some metal "dust" is going to be normal.

 

I use the handle of my floor jack slipped over the handle of my craftsman breaker bar for stubborn stuff. Pre soak PB Blaster as stated above and the slightly tighten and loosen trick works wonders on stubborn stuff like like when you tap something you alternate between tapping more and backing out then tapping more and backing out.

 

I went to Harbor Freight and got a huge 1/2" wrench..put some muscle in it...voala....it worked

 

Just remember, the longer the lever arm, the easier it is to generate more FOOT POUNDS of TORQUE with a lot less effort than messing with a shorter tool.

Have you seen some of the really large wrenches like they have at power plants or shipyards. Some are three or four feet long.

Also you can even use a hydraulic jack to lift a lever arm to loosen a stubborn bolt. And the tightening a little often is easier.

Just don't get frustrated and beat it badly with a hammer and break it into a million pieces.

 

Forgive me if I missed it but what keeps the red suspension fault from come on limiting you to 30mph with F26 out?

 

Wrong thread.