Ultra gauge is very informative
I finally took the time to set up my screens. Because of the check engine liget and codes of p0150 and p0153 I watched the voltage on 02 sensor bank 2 sensor 1 and found the voltage will not vary much .495 to .520 and the Bank one sensor acts as a sensor should by changin voltage 1.000 to .045 etc. as the system should.
Any of you guys do this?
Any of you guys do this?
On one of my pages set up like this...
TEMP | RPM
O21bank1| O21bank2
O22bank1| O22bank2
Rear O2 on bank 2 is slow to respond, it reads .95 volts 90% of the time and almost never changes. But since it is a rear O2 and they do nothing and I am not getting a code for it I am not going to worry about it.
My fronts are new this summer and work as should, my other rear O2 is also slow but not as bad.
It is fun to experiment with driving habits, fuel brands etc. to see how the MPG change and timing advance, etc.
TEMP | RPM
O21bank1| O21bank2
O22bank1| O22bank2
Rear O2 on bank 2 is slow to respond, it reads .95 volts 90% of the time and almost never changes. But since it is a rear O2 and they do nothing and I am not getting a code for it I am not going to worry about it.
My fronts are new this summer and work as should, my other rear O2 is also slow but not as bad.
It is fun to experiment with driving habits, fuel brands etc. to see how the MPG change and timing advance, etc.
On one of my pages set up like this...
TEMP | RPM
O21bank1| O21bank2
O22bank1| O22bank2
Rear O2 on bank 2 is slow to respond, it reads .95 volts 90% of the time and almost never changes. But since it is a rear O2 and they do nothing and I am not getting a code for it I am not going to worry about it.
My fronts are new this summer and work as should, my other rear O2 is also slow but not as bad.
It is fun to experiment with driving habits, fuel brands etc. to see how the MPG change and timing advance, etc.
TEMP | RPM
O21bank1| O21bank2
O22bank1| O22bank2
Rear O2 on bank 2 is slow to respond, it reads .95 volts 90% of the time and almost never changes. But since it is a rear O2 and they do nothing and I am not getting a code for it I am not going to worry about it.
My fronts are new this summer and work as should, my other rear O2 is also slow but not as bad.
It is fun to experiment with driving habits, fuel brands etc. to see how the MPG change and timing advance, etc.
I am shocked at the amount of advance it shows. Today it was peaking at 47.5
The other thing that is weird is the MPH as compared to what I see on my dash. Today it showed 67 vs my dash showing 75
The other thing that is weird is the MPH as compared to what I see on my dash. Today it showed 67 vs my dash showing 75
There is a buffer circuit board in the speedo cluster that "massages" the pulses from the VSS. Not sure if what is sent to OBDII port is raw or processed. Mine does the same (using a code reader). GPS speed over ground will tell the tale, if you have a portable one. Or just maintain 60 mph for several miles and check against the mileposts with a watch.
The speedo on the DI reads fast, my ECU reads 5mph exactly slower than my speedo, and my TomTom and my iPhone4 all read the 5mph slower than the speedo.
I just set my cruise 5mph faster than I actually want to go.
And the odd part, my odometer is dead on.
I just set my cruise 5mph faster than I actually want to go.
And the odd part, my odometer is dead on.
Well tonight my bad sensor started reading 700 to 900 and I have extremely rich condition going on. My O2 sensor is on overnight so I should get it in tomorrow evening. JUST in time..
I also notice air intake temps seem high when driving through 40 degree air. Seem to me cooling the air charge would be more beneficial?
I also notice air intake temps seem high when driving through 40 degree air. Seem to me cooling the air charge would be more beneficial?


