Since Ultra4 has added a stock class to its series, i decided to take a stab at it. Over the next months I will try to keep everyone updated and entertained with my build.
As the rover sits now it is on 245/75 tires with a terrafirma lift, stock engine and thats about it. It has been a fairly reliable trail rig.
Plans for stock class build:
Engine:
Land Rover 4.0 block, bored/stroked, buick 300 heads, buick 350 crank, chevy rods, ford pistons, crower cam with around .500 lift, custom intake
here is my donor engine, still looking for heads. I will order all other parts when i start on the engine


Chassis:
It will remain within rules and wheel base will stretch to 103" (2" forward and 1" back)
Double Triangulated 4 link out back and three link up front

Suspension:
it will stay coil sprung, springs will most likely come from wild horses, although, im not sure what length, I will have to wait till I get the axles built
Shocks must be limited to 14" of travel, so I will shop around for my options

Axles:
Right now I have a dana 60 for the front, I am in the process of cutting the pumpkin out and switching it to passenger side drop, then i need to decide if i want to keep the stock knuckles or buy better ones.
here are some pics of the axle progress




I still need to press the axle tube out of the short side and make it the new long side, and the current long side will be my new short side. Then the knuckles will be welded back on and set for the right caster.
Rear axle is still up in the air, not sure if I want a dana 80, chevy 14 bolt or ford 10.5 (sterling)
here is a sterling I found at the junk yard


Im sure I will come up with new ideas as I go through this build. The hardest and trickiest part of the build, is the fact that the rover will still be my daily driver during the transformation.

 

What size tires you going to run?

Why didnt you do FJ80 axles? or 30 spline conversion to your current set up? You should talk to Keith at Rovingtracks - RovingTracks - Superior Accessories for your Land Rover or 4x4

I am excited to see how the engine does. I have contemplated building one similar but only have so much time in a day.

Shocks - I would run Fox 12" 2.0 res shocks.. Pending the link set up you run you may want to over valve them a bit - I had to with my front shocks cause of the 3 link. Also run their air bump stops. Are you going to run cones or retainers? Any idea on spring rates?

My biggest suggestion with suspension on a full body disco is keep it as low as you can cause you dont want to drive a top heavy disco on trails.

Any mock ups of how you plan to do the 3 link in the front?

Good luck doing this while keeping your truck a daily driver.. You're gonna spend a lot of long weekends trying to get **** done

 

May I suggest that extra engine output means more heat load on radiator, consider a different fan clutch and fan. These came from a 2000 Blazer, same thread and reverse direction as our six inch fan clutch, moves more air at idle and while underway at modest speeds.

 

tires will be 35", not sure what brand, I really like my kumhos so I may just get bigger versions of them.
I didnt want rover or toyota axles because the dana's are just better, they have bigger ring gear and axle tubes, and for something like King of the Hammers, I want the best setup possible.
The shocks will definitely be 14" shocks, probably from fox or king, we'll see. Rules wont allow air bump stops or any air shock. I will most likely use a rubber bump stop on the dislocation cone or something, we'll see.
Low center of gravity is one of my goals, I've had this thing lean over before and dont care to have it happen again.
Im not sure how im going to run my 3 link. I saw a setup on a buddys jeep i liked, where the 3rd link came off of the lower link to locate the axle. I might use that setup at first. But i plan to run the exhaust through the wheel wells, which will clear up loads of room. If I remember correctly, there is more room on the passenger side, so that will be where i run the 3rd link. Ill try and sketch something up, i laid under the truck the other day in the shop for an hour measuring and brainstorming everything.

My ultimate goal is to have a bolt/weld on kit available for anyone who wants the same setup. So, im not trying to over think this and make it too complicated.

 

Buzz, i will be running a Griffin Radiator and electric fans. Thanks for the suggestion, but that's not something i overlooked. I will get more into all the engine stuff when it comes around, I just decided to throw the basics out there.

BTW, we ran the engine setup on one of our dyno sims at school. The numbers were pretty awesome, something like 550hp/530 torque. Pretty exciting!

 

Where in the upstate? I lived in Easley for a while... before BMW

 

If I were you... I'd get this for the rear Lucky8 Llc. - Take the road less traveled... and then just replace the trailing arms with some custom links. The rear is already a triangulated 3-link..

I have a safari gar 3-link on the front of mine



14" shocks is going to be tough to fit without cutting thru the rear floors and making custom towers that are touching the hood.

progressive bump stops I recommend - Prothane 191311 - Progressive Rate Multi Mount Bump Stop - 4.5 Inch. 191311 and then make a plate on the axles to line up with the bump stops on the frame. I custom made a bracket to lower the mounts to fit the 12" shocks..

35's - run 4.56's or 4.88's is the 60 - where you going to get drive shafts from?

 

Subscribed. This is gonna be cool. Get at it dude!

 

Buzz, ive grew up in spartanburg, went to clemson, now I live in greenville and am doing the motorsports program at greenville tech.

 

by the way 35's? Why such tiny tires for the Dana 60?