Hi there

This is a follow-up thread to buying a Disco on auction but with a new thread title, as we now have a non-starter. Everything was running fine; she would hunt when idling, and the fuel consumption was very high, but at least she was running. Stopped at a friends house in Idaho and she just won't turn over. The fuel pump and filter has been changed, plugs have been checked, the ignition module has been changed out, battery is fine, fuses and relays have been checked and some replaced and the Onboard diagnostic display is only kicking out the error code, 02 after disconnecting it. We're meant to be back on the road heading back down to Mexico (where we live) but stuck at the moment. We ordered an MAF and Idle air control valve that will hopefully arrive tomorrow; however, before the issues, we ran her without the MAF, and it was fine. Does anyone have any ideas as we're running out of time and options? Thanks everyone!

 

Focus on the basics: Spark, fuel, air. Are you getting spark? Do you know how to check? If no spark, first on the list is the distributor amplifier (is that the ignition module you mentioned?) Second on the list is the coil (measure primary and secondary ohms). Also check the main wire from the coil. Maybe try in the dark to see if any sparking shows where it shouldn't be (e.g. around the distributor cap). Make sure the distributor is not loose, and did not rotate.

If you have spark, next question is if you have fuel. Does it start using starting fluid sprayed into the intake? If yes, then there is a fuel delivery problem.

Hunting during idle could be caused by dirty Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) or clogged air passages. Make sure to used carb cleaner to flush that out well, and clean off the throttle plate. Also check all those rubber tubes for cracks & leaks.

My '94 gets 13 MPG, very well tuned up. What is your idea of "Very High" fuel consumption. Less than 9 MPG could mean bad O2 sensors, but should not cause a crank-no-start condition.

Let us know about spark and fuel results, and enjoy spending a little extra time with your friends.

 

Update: I tried the override on the immobilizer by using the key with the key code 1515. She ran rough (it's pretty cold at the moment), switched her off, and tried again. She's now a no-go. Should I try to bypass the immobilizer and try again?

Spark all good. Coil has been replaced and new distributor with plugs.

Fuel did spray at fuel rail when testing.

Cleaned out the Idle Air Control valve and will be replacing all the relevant hoses.

 

Good you got it to start! That gives us hope. When was the distributor replaced? Before or after the trip? How did you set initial timing? Do you have a timing light? Initial timing, with no added advance (vacuum port plugged and idle RPM), should be 5 - 7 degrees BTDC. Do you mean "new distributor CAP", or whole new distributor?

If the distributor rotor got pulled up, that can cause the centrifugal springs to pop off, so be careful (hold the metal shaft down with a screwdriver). If those springs pop off, it can mess with the timing, then you need to dig in deeper to the distributor to re-install the springs. Might need to set the gap on the pick-up again if that happened, but if spark is good, then the gap is OK. Make sure the yellow plastic cover is re-installed when you put it all back together. Bad timing can cause rough running, even no-start if really bad. Also double check the plug wires are installed on the correct terminals. If the wires get crossed, that can cause rough running or no-start if really messed up. Do you know how to set the engine at TDC? Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The distributor rotor should line up with 1 at TDC on #1 power stroke, or 6 at TDC on #1 intake stroke. If any of this stuff was bad in Canada, you would not have made it to Idaho, so this is just checking your work in Idaho.

 

Thanks John.

It was purchased on auction so not sure exactly what was done but by the looks of it, it was just the distributor cap. The MAF and Idle Control valve was replaced and she managed to do a couple of laps around the block. Checked it out and the exhaust was red hot with a definite running and idling issue. The timing is definitely off and need to rent a timing light in order to get her running right. Could it be bad cats for the red-hot exhaust? Thinking of doing a "decat" when back home

 

Glad you could drive, but DO NOT drive with red-hot cats because the whole vehicle could catch fire. It means the cats are working very good, but getting too much fuel. Gas is getting to the cats. The engine is running way too rich. Maybe try again with the MAF unplugged. The computer uses RPM data to estimate air-flow if the MAF is unplugged. Also mis-firing can cause rough running, and supply raw fuel to the cats. These engines can run with one cylinder mis-firing on each bank, but runs very rough. That should definitely turn on the Check Engine Light (CEL). Before starting, does the CEL light up? If not, maybe the bulb is gone. Still no codes? You might have a problem with O2 sensors, but would expect a code. Harder to check the O2s on these older trucks (but not impossible). '96 on have OBD II, so way easier. Make sure no wires have melted on the exhaust.

My '94 came "de-catted" when I bought it. A PO had busted out the ceramics and welded patches on the cats. It took me a while before I figured that out.

Like I mentioned before, timing at idle should be around 5 - 7 degrees BTDC. It is hard to see the timing marks, look carefully for the 0, 6, and 12 marks on the crank dampener, also BTDC and ATDC will be there. If it's rusty, you might need to polish it some. I used my wife's nail polish to highlight the marks. Some folks use white-out or a paint pen. Don't pay attention to the big notch cut out, that is not TDC. Use a rubber cap to block the vacuum advance tube, when measuring timing at idle (less than 800 RPM). Rev up to 2500 rpm, the timing should increase around 24 degrees or so. I found there is a line of sight to see the timing pointer, it is above the dampener and to the left (driver's side). The timing light will be wedged in there near the power steering, so be very careful working near the belt and fan blades and such. You need to get just the right angle to see the light and pointer, and the shadow on the dampener. Don't melt the timing light clip on the exhaust manifold. Also need the right wrench to loosen and tighten the distributor anchor nut. Take care and let us know how it goes.

 

sounds like mine when I had to disconnect the batt and reconnect for it to turn over. did you try that??