I just bought a 96 D1. Here's the problem: sometimes it fires right up, and sometimes it cranks but won't start. When it doesn't start, the fix is to disconnect the neg battery cable for a few seconds, then put it back on and she'll start. Anyone ever run into this before??

 

If electrical connections are all tight and clean, consider testing fuel pump pressure (valve on passenger fuel rail) - could be relay or fuel pump or fuel filter. Could also be crank position sensor, but they usually fail when warm, then reset when cooled off. You can test by having an extra spark plug attachhed to a spark plug cable you have pulled off and lay on manifold. If it does not spark, the CKP is indicated.

 

Thanks. I'll check for spark first and report back.

 

update: I have no spark. Unfortunately, disconnecting the battery isn't doing the trick any more. Is it worth it to try a new crank pos sensor? Even though it wouldn't start at times, it NEVER stalled once it was running. Is there a chance that the security system could be at fault?

 

Anything is possible, it's a Land Rover! I would spend the $60 on a new crank sensor, just because they are known for this type of scenario. At least then you know when it was replaced and should be able to diagnose the rest of the truck without guessing.

I would not rule out a number of other possible problems though. Corrosion in the alarm unit, ECU, or engine compartment fuse box, etc.

 

Corroded ground connections at the frame to battery and frame to starter also will give unusual problems. Antichrist manufactures and sells the best replacement power and ground cables available for a Discovery.

 

This afternoon's project will be to check every connection and ground I can find when I get a break from working on my other car. When it rains, it pours.

 

If you get a new CKP, RockAuto has the SMP PC714 for about $30.

 

One "ground" test is to use a battery jumper cable from the negative post of the battery to a substantial metal spot on the engine that you don't mind scratching. Or get out the voltmeter.

 

On my 97, the ground connection from tarter to frame was so badly corroded, the fastener looked like what you see on shipwrecks. The bolthead was no longer shaped like a bolthead. Removal was impossible so I cut the existing cable at the tab and attached a new lug. I used a dremel deburring tool to abrade the surface of the frame to bare metal and used a self drilling bolt to attach. I had to redo that after one winter's road salt.