Window lift ECU
#1
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#7
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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The clip on the side pushes in and that is supposed to release it. You can remove the circuit card without removing the connector ( I did ).
I reflowed all the solder joints and mine works fine, I have heard of others having to do it twice for success.
Mine had a couple of fine hairline cracks in some of the solder joints that looked good until you pushed on the lead with a probe, then you see the crack open. Reflowed, works fine now.
NGA, I agree with the kids, you sold the wrong one man.
I reflowed all the solder joints and mine works fine, I have heard of others having to do it twice for success.
Mine had a couple of fine hairline cracks in some of the solder joints that looked good until you pushed on the lead with a probe, then you see the crack open. Reflowed, works fine now.
NGA, I agree with the kids, you sold the wrong one man.
#8
Updated
First off, sorry NGA ROVER! I'm sure the white one will be great once its ready and rolling!
Secondly, I did FINALLY get the plug out, after much frustration, cursing, breaking the lift ecu and more cursing. Hooked up the "working" lift ECU I had ready and still nothing. I really doubt this replacement one just needs some good soldering too, since I already tried that with the first one, but I will give it a close twice-over later.
Am I left with thinking BOTH rear window motors are bad? I've checked (thanks cosmo) the plugs for resistance, the switches, the lift ecu is getting power, etc. but no noise coming from the rear windows at all.
I'm going to get a multimeter to double check that power is coming from THIS lift ECU, but if its the motors...my rear windows are going to stay up for a while.
Thanks.
Secondly, I did FINALLY get the plug out, after much frustration, cursing, breaking the lift ecu and more cursing. Hooked up the "working" lift ECU I had ready and still nothing. I really doubt this replacement one just needs some good soldering too, since I already tried that with the first one, but I will give it a close twice-over later.
Am I left with thinking BOTH rear window motors are bad? I've checked (thanks cosmo) the plugs for resistance, the switches, the lift ecu is getting power, etc. but no noise coming from the rear windows at all.
I'm going to get a multimeter to double check that power is coming from THIS lift ECU, but if its the motors...my rear windows are going to stay up for a while.
Thanks.
#9
I had to solder mine twice. The first time I only did the connections I could see were bad. The second time I did them all. Also they sell this: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/AMR1282RK.cfm Good luck I know this can be awfully frustrating.
#10