I've seen the usual run the wiring up the window trim finisher routine. I'm looking to do something a little more robust

Does anyone have any experience using the weather proof milspec type screw wiring connectors? I'm thinking of getting a set and using a panel mount type of shell on the roof with a cap that can be secured when the lights arent being used to seal the wiring connector. I know it's probably overkill but i'd like to do it once and never have to think about it again. Until i get a full rack I think i'm going to just mount my lights to one of the factory cross bars for the roof rails. This will allow me to quickly disconnect the wiring and stow the lights when not needed. Any thoughts on this?

 

At marine supply places, like West Marine, they will have electrical fittings that have caps and gaskets, etc. Made to look good on very expensive toys.

 

Try Genuindealz

GenuineDealz.com - Marine Electrical, Boat Wire & Cable, Custom Battery Cables

They specialize in marine wiring. Using marine connectors will help protecting your wiring from the weather.


If you want quick disconnects, you will want these (sized appropriately for your wiring gauge).

22-18 .250 in Male disconnects - 5pk: GIM-30187-V Genuinedealz


And a primer on weather proof terminations.

Marine Wire Termination Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

 

Here's what i've found as far as shells, not bad price wise compared to some of the higher end AMP units.

Panel Mount:
C90-3102R14S-6P Harwin Circular MIL / Spec Connectors
End of wiring harness for lamps:
C90-3106F14S-6S Harwin Circular MIL / Spec Connectors
Cap for the panel when lights aren't in use:
C90-25043-14S Harwin Circular MIL / Spec Connectors

I settled on a 6 pin configuration as I can use two pair for the forward facing lights, and then run the third pair to the back for a work light mounted at the rear.

 

get something that can handle 16g wire, or use a couple of pins if youre running one of the connectors that handle 18-22g. with good gxl or txl wire it should be no issue to run whatever amount of juice through a single 16g wire.


i like your idea for the connector though! definitely post some shots when you get that all dialed..

 

Those shells can handle up to 16 gauge wiring so i'm golden there.

I got the idea when i saw some detail pics recently of the porsche trans siberia cayenne's light bar. I think i'm going go a similar route using those types of shells for the spotting lights i'm going to mount under the chassis.

 

deutsch also makes some of the best connectors around, but theyre big $, the crimpers for their pins are big $, and they can be tough to source in "normal person" quantities sometimes...



if you go with those covered marine spade deals, slather the connection side of bad boys in dielectric grease... theyll get pretty nasty if theyre just sitting around in the weather with nothing in them.

id go with a proper multipin connector if i was you though

 

deutsch and beru make some great connectors, but you are right - the price is waaay out of my range just for the shells alone and then when you add in the pins and crimpers put it into the realm of "maybe when i win the lottery" Thats the reason i went with the above listed shells - they are solder type pins and dont need expensive crimpers.

Not into the marine spades either, if that were the case I'd just run the wiring up under the window trim like others and use some weatherpack connectors and call it a day. I want to put this into the category of do it once and never think about it again.

 

cool!
keep us posted on how you end up doing it.

im getting a full length rack today and have been throwing around the lights idea... but ill probably just go the easy way and route the wires out of the rear tails, or up the windsheild

 

I would put a separate connector for each light. Solder is just fine, actaully better than most hand crimps and seal the backshell with potting compound or rtv sealant to keep moisture and crud out.

I was an Aviation Electricain in the Navy then an Electrical Manufacturing Engineer then a Reliability Engineer on the Tomahawk Cruise Missile Program for MDAC at the Tomahawk Production Facility in Tituisville Florida.

If you could find some type of unit that you can use that you could either remove the existing top rails and use those holes, or drill new ones, route all your wires and then have a nice cover over all that for the lights to reside upon. Sort of like Paul Sr. does on American Chopper, run the wires inside the framework of your mouning system.