yes 30 seconds tops, once you know how to do it of course.

 

Pretty sure everything has been covered here, but I was about to do something similar to most of everything on here. I was going to cut a 4" hole in the breather box and run a line to the hole right behind the headlight. The problem with the factory box if the tiny hole in the silencer (trumpet thingy). It does not allow much air to pass through, and when you hit the throttle, it fights to suck air through.

I was going to glue a coupling on it so I could either thread the stock parts back in for offroading, or thread in the cold air intake. The design (I hope) will increase airflow while pulling the air from the front of the truck instead of the intensly hot engine bay. there will still be the baffles in the air box to remove water if it gets forced in.

I have been hesitant because I don't have my hands on another airbox yet. Might get one this week and try it. Will post pics...

 

I saw a Ford ThunderBolt 427 in a Falcon? or Fairlane Body early 60's factory drag car.

They had dual air intakes from the inner headlight holes on each side. Talk about Ram Air. Anything that reduces incoming air temp results in higher HP due to the basic formula for HP. Delta T X Delta P = HP, right?

 

Horsepower=(net work output/displacement volume)*(displacement volume per cylinder)*(number of power strokes/sec)*(number of cylinders)/550

In this case, all of the variables are fixed except for net work output. Your work in this case basically comes down to being a function of temperature. So yeah, if you start with cooler air, and then raise it (through combustion) to the same temperature as you were before doing any intake modifications, you're doing more work. More work means more power.

 

AEM makes their filters to run without oil for those D2 owners who want this mod. It supposedly filters down to 1 micron and you can get a cover for added moisture and dust protection. They are $50 bucks but I'd rather front that money for the filter than the $230 for a MAF. Mines on the way, I ordered part# 21-2113DK it has a 3.25 inch flange which is the size of the air tube on the D2. I will update with how it works.

 

for the guys that have done this..do you guys get a whistle sound at idle and part throttle..its super annoying..i went back to stock air box

 

whistle sound... HMMM..... I have an air sucktion sound but not whistle

 

To all the folks that state as fact "everyone knows" or "its been proven"... that K&N filters allow more dirt to pass than stock filters... could one of you post a link to a reliable documented study or your source? I notice that K&N is a sponsor via their banner adds here so this is the least that should be done. I have no real take one way or the other but would like to know the truth. Thanks ... Joe

 

I'm a motorcycle mechanic, mainly on Italian bikes, what I can say, with absolute certainty, is that the bikes with K&N filters in them need throttle body cleaning less regularly than ones running stock paper filters.

so, take that for what it's worth.

 

Ok so if i run some PVC and install another air filter on the passenger side, Therefore having twin air filters, sucking in air faster but at the same amount... Would that make a difference? would it be possible?!