BritBranch where do you live?
There are lots of people on here who whould be glad to help you in your driveway for the price of a happy meal.

You CAN replace this yourself, all you will need is a couple of screwdrivers, a cheap socket set, Channel-Locks and pliers.
Even if you know nothing it will take you no less than half a day.
And yes, you DO have advanced evap loss.

 

I'm not sure if yours takes the same actual pump as the non advanced evap loss assemblies, but if it does you can fix it yourself for about $70-$100. I think it does though. This is what I did on my '95
The D1 takes a Delco EP241 pump.
A TS7 strainer
About a foot of 5/16" high pressure fuel line to work with and a couple of fuel injector hose clamps.

All the usual precautions working around petrol.
Easiest way to diagnose is with 10' of 2 conductor wire with a couple of small alligator clips.
First, pull up the carpet in the boot and undo the cover plate to gain access to the pump. Carefully undo the electrical connections. The power for the pump is the white w/purple trace wire.
Carefully connect the alligator clips to the connections on the pump, then have a friend listen while you connect the other end either to your battery, or in to your cigar lighter. If you get no sound your pump is dead.
Remove your test leads, undo the fuel lines, unscrew the large retaining ring and pull out the pump.
You can then see where to take apart the pump housing to get to the actual pump.
It should be pretty straight forward from that point on. Just be careful when you install the hose clamps that they aren't touching the little electrical connectors near them.

Some people have reported that some of the aftermarket pumps are wired in reverse, so you may want to test it to make before you install it. I used a Delco pump and didn't have that problem.

Here's a step by step:
http://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=14451

 

I live in Columbus and do not think I'll be fixing this myself. I don't mind paying a place to fix this but just want to make sure the base costs are realistic.

Is the $620 base cost for the fuel pump to high? I just want to make sure that I am getting the correct fuel pump before having it ordered, and I guess there are 2 options depending on the land rover. Thanks!

 

Mike-- it wasn't the crank sensor. Is it smart to fix the filter and relay with the fuel pump? Here is the breakdown:

$10 – charge battery to test vehicle

89.95 – diagnostic time, check crank no start, check elec/check fuel, found no fuel pressure

618.16 – new fuel pump assembly
16.47 – fuel pump seal
161.94 – labor fuel pump assembly

Recommend new fuel filter

Fuel filter – 27.49
Labor fuel filter – 62.46

Recommend new fuel pump relay
Fuel pump relay – 28.01
Labor install relay – 61.94

 

http://roverparts.com/Parts/WFX101020K.cfm

http://roverparts.com/Parts/AFU2913OE.cfm

http://roverparts.com/Parts/ESR4065.cfm

Just to give you a idea of what the parts should cost.
These are LR parts, aftermarket parts will be cheaper.

His price is high for both parts and labor, not to mention that he should wave the diognostic fee and the battery charge fee if he does the work.
He is trying to make money off the parts as well as the labor, no shop should make money off of the parts, labor is the money maker not parts.
And just a FYI, it is a 15 min job to replace the fuel filter on a DI.
So he is going to charge you for a hours labor for a 15 min job, not cool man, not cool.

 

I just bought a fuel filter at NAPA for $14, and that was the premium one. They also have them for $9.
Why is he replacing the relay and the pump? I'd be surprised if they both failed at the same time. Has he explained why it takes him an hour to replace the relay?

The time for the fuel pump is way too long. I didn't take that long to do mine and I had to drill out 4 of the screws holding in the access panel, plus actually rebuilding the pump as opposed to just popping out the old and putting in a new one.