Witch red oil light is coming on? The one in the lower left or upper right. The one in the upper right is your tranny oil temp. If it's coming on that means your probably have a leak in your tranny rad. If it's your other one then....well enough people have commented on that.

 

Hi everyone, sorry - there have been fires all over the place here and the air quality is awful.

To clarify, it is the oil light by the battery light on the panel, which is at the bottom-center.

For whatever reason, the light hasn’t gone on in a while. I’m making sure to drive more easily now too. That’s also because of a weird alignment issue :P

I’ve looked into the modifications and I’ll get to it ASAP. About replacing the front crankshaft seal - I’ll need to pull the fan in front and serpentine belt, right?

I hope everyone has been enjoying their Rovers lately.

 

I'd just like to update quickly - I finally had time to change the oil and I used Shell Rotella T4 15W-40, as recommended.

The vehicle is running much, much better. The ticking noise is gone... The red oil light isn't coming on at all when I pull up the steep driveway now (it stopped turning on before after I added more oil, I believe, but I still haven't seen it in some time). It's incredible. I'm so happy - thank you so much for all of the help.

I've still got a TON of work to do on this car, but I haven't had time (rebuilding my house too right now) and it got to the point I needed to change the oil, so I decided I'd see how things went with that first and I'll deal with everything else as soon as I've got the time, including the PCV mod, crankshaft seal, clean out oil pan and pickup pipe, oil pump rebuild... that'll be next time, I hope).

I'll start with the PCV mod. I've got the part, but I'm a bit unclear of how this is done exactly. Does anyone have a video showing the steps? I'll have to read through the guide again and see what I can figure out - I'm a bit confused. Maybe I'll take some pictures of my engine and mark them up with arrows to make sure I'm not doing this like a complete donkey. This is the part I bought - a V288 PCV valve from Standard Motor Products



Thanks again and happy new year

 

All the info for the FV308 mod is in the Sticky.

 

you have an pressure issue .., the light is for pressure ...pump or bearing rel. ... you need to install an oil gauge now... do not wait .. if you have an 03-04 its mandatory .. Hhere is what happened ... the thicker oil bumped the pressure up enough to turn off the switch .. but it did not solve the underlying issue..

 

OK I'll definitely get to it. I'm just wondering why the oil light was only coming on for a few weeks when I pulled up the driveway, then stopped turning on. I added oil during that time, but didn't do a full flush and replace. The light wasn't on the whole time I was driving, or the whole time up until I had time to do an oil change. Do you know if it's possible to do the oil pump work without flushing the oil again? That might be a stupid question... I'm learning here.

In installing an oil pressure gauge, do you happen to know how this can be done as easily as possible? Is there a guide you can refer me to? I'll try my searches and see what I come up with, but I would appreciate a recommendation. Thank you

 

If the light only came on going UP the driveway, and you had to add oil, then it sounds like the engine was starving for oil and causing the pressure to drop, even though the pick-up tube sits pretty low in the pan.
Sludge in the pan and pick-up tube screen is also common in these engines and can restrict flow.
You can use a port on the side of the timing cover, above the oil filter, to install an oil pressure gauge.

You also must drop the oil pan to remove the timing cover(to access the oil pump).
Unless you're extremely lucky and someone previously replaced the 3 studs on the bottom of the timing cover with bolts, eliminating the need to drop the oil pan.

 

Thanks - I'll have to see if I can figure that out. I didn't know the engine was leaking oil until I got under to check some things out. I've been advised to install the PCV mod to take some of the pressure off the seals and I'll have to see if I can figure out how to do that properly. About the oil pan, pickup pipe, timing cover and oil pump work, I'll have to see if I can get all the replacement parts in front of me and start working on a long weekend when I won't need to go anywhere, since this is likely to take me at least all weekend... Do you know if the oil pan can be removed without removing anything else? It just wiggles out and then back in? The pan looked pretty large...

 

You have to jack up the suspension under the crossmember or side of the frame, and turn the pan around, and down and out the driver side, towards the rear.
Unbolt it first, unbolt the pick-up tube(1 bracket bolt and where it goes into pump at front, both visible).
You don't want your arms in there unbolting everything with the suspension jacked up.