2004 Landrover Discovery 80,000 KM

My brother in-law has an 04 Disco that was leaking anti-freeze and it was leaking around the transmission case and was dropping on the exhaust and smelling like burned anti-freeze. It turned out that it was coming from the in-take manifold gasket.

They replaced the top end of the engine with brand new parts (except the 2 heads) also including the hydraulic lifters, thermostat, and water pump.

Since replacing these parts he has noticed when you start the car the engine is fine, but when it warms up (approx 15 min) he notices a tapping noise coming from both valve covers. When it exceeds idling over 1100 - 1200 RPM that is when the noise seems to go away.

Other then that the engine sounds great.

Does anyone know what the problem could be?

 

1. So in your opinion the noise stops at 1200 rpm, or is just drowned out by the rest of the noise at that point?

2. Type of oil you are using? Would hope "somethingW40".

3. May want to do an oil pressure mechanical gauge test, cold and hot, idle and 2000 rpm. The oil light goes out at like 7 PSI, so if you only have 16 PSI at 1100 rpm, your work will be erased soon. Pix of oil pump with cracks, pumps, but lower than normal PSI. Sometimes makes the "tick" sound.

 

1. I would say that it stops completely

2. We use 10W30...Should we change that?

Great thank you for this information I will do as you recommended.

Do you happen to know if the oil pump is in the oil pan and is that located in the timing cover?

By looking at your picture it looks like it drives with a crank shaft which is between the timing cover and the motor. Is that correct?

Thank you so much for all your help!

 

IMHO 30 W is too light for this truck. Many members report good results with plain old Shell Rotella 15W40, cheap, easy to find, change every 5000. Oil change easy to do, may help noise. But I am concerned that you have low oil PSI.

Yes, pump is inside front cover driven by crank shaft. But please review the RAVE drawings and procedures before jumping in there, and do the oil PSI test. Also, if you have to go in there, timeing chain is right there also.

 

Did they replace the camshaft too, or just throw new lifters on the old cam?

 

Hi There,

I was told that they changed the lifters and just put them on the old camshaft.

My brother in-law said that occasionally they would hear a ticking that is why they decided to change the lifters at the same time as the other stuff.

 

Thanks for this information we will try the Oil PSI test before doing anything else.

 

New lifter on old cam shaft may have short service life, as those surfaces that mate would have been "worn" down over the miles to match, now there are high spots on one of the surfaces. Depends on wear of the original pats.

 

What are your thoughts on rotella 15w40 regular vs synthetic? I can't find the synthetic anywhere (including Wally world).

 

I'm a major proponent of synthetics... Very robust additive packages in comparison to the cheaper dino oils. Higher amount of detergents to clean things up, better protection at very low (50% of engine wear happens on cold starts) and high temperatures and have the ability of extended drain intervals. The Rotella T6 Synthetic, is in a navy blue 1 gallon jug and is the most readily synthetic diesel oil available on the market. O'Reily Auto Parts, Advanced Auto will both carry the Rotella usually around $29.99/gallon and as cheap as $19.99/gallon. Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 and Chevron Delo 400 5W-40 synthetic are also very good choices if you're wanting to run the heavy duty engine oils. For regular passenger car synthetics that will perform very well is the Mobil 1 0W-40 and Pennzoil Ultra 5W-40, both are great choices. Also, if you are using a cheap oil filter it can result in increased engine noise. M1 Extended Performance filters are spendy but are very high in quality, OEM, Bosch and Purolator filters are all very good as well.