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That is my point... one person is saying it is drop and drive and another is saying the “adaptive setting” will need to be reset in the ECU. I just wanted to drive my Discovery when my new motor was back in the car. Do whatever you like, I was just stating why I chose go with a stock cam.
If you were to read my HG job thread you would get two answers to the same questions from the same guy!
The way I dealt with that was to contact the Tech Support people for the products be it a gasket or ARP Studs.
Definitively, you would want to email Kent Cams and Crower Cams to get there recommendations. We are what we are, a good resource of like minded nuts who are learning by trial and error.
Do your due diligence, and do what is going to make you enjoy the car. For me that is trying to upgrade things, and go “better than new”, for you it will be different. If a stock Cam makes you happy so be it, but if you like the idea of the upgraded cam go right to Tech support.
". . . .I decided to go with a stock cam from Lucky 8 (part: ERR5250). I couldn’t be happier because I have zero issues after 10k miles and idles and throttles up like it was designed to. I can set my cruise on sport mode and never downshift going 70 from Phoenix to Flagstaff (6000ft gradual incline). IMHO I don’t think the advertised 2e 30HP gain is not worth the possible complications it can cause."
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I have rebuilt several 4.6 and earlier versions of this engine, including the original GMC 215 cu. inch, and I have always rejected the idea of so-called "higher performance" camshafts in these engines, mostly because they are not needed for my common every day street driving use. For my use, the OEM cam is just fine, and I have put well over 100K miles on numerous off them, with no problems at all.
I put a stock 4.6 cam in my 4.0 from Lucky8. No issues. Well, except I put it in while the motor was in the truck and caused a leak in the hvac system 😁😞
That is my point... one person is saying it is drop and drive and another is saying the “adaptive setting” will need to be reset in the ECU. I just wanted to drive my Discovery when my new motor was back in the car. Do whatever you like, I was just stating why I chose go with a stock cam.
The adaptive values being reset automatically happens when the ECU loses power, which happens when the battery has been unhooked long enough to swap the cam or motor.
I pulled the motor out. It took me 3.5 hours and it was out hanging on the engine crane. I disassembled it completely. I found the source of the oil leak (rear main seal. I found the source of the tick, the cam shaft was worn on the lobes really badly. I put a mic on the lobes. One was .026 less than the new stock cam. Its a wonder it even ran? The cam bearings are pitted and flaking babbet. and the rod bearing were worn into the copper. Most of the lifters show wear but are not dished as bad as I expected to see. So the crank goes off to the machine shop for a polish. I block is soaking in the parts washer.I pull the heads apart tomorrow and grind the valves and seats, then put the cam beatings in. If all goes well she will be back on the road before next weekend. Thumbs up to Eric at Lucky8 for the hook up on parts. He's a great guy and I HIGHLY recommend that you guys order from him. Great customer service and the parts are wonderful quality and priced right!!
So to this point I have about 6 hours into the project. Cleaning the parts will take some time. I plan to bead blast some of the misc brackets and bits and repaint them and pressure wash the engine bay to brighten the rover up
Last edited by Speedsterguy; 12-29-2018 at 06:01 PM.
Reason: spelling
12-26-2018, 12:00 PM
