Hallo Every body. Trying to bring my new Disco up to speed and these are the issues

After power wash the first leak appeared at the gasket of power steering pump, so this will need to be replaced (already ordered), the suction hose might or might not be leaking and I ordered one too.

Now 3 days later and after about 70 miles mix city/highway driving, I see a leak from the pressure hose at the steering box (pump to box hose). Could this be fixed just by a new washer/O-Ring? or I need to buy the hose?
Why is the hose actually so long going behind or under the radiator? My Disco one just had a short hose to the box

My 96 Disco had a nut on the hose at the steering box, this one has a plate or some thing, I don't see any nut for opening/closing. How do you actually remove the pressure hose from steering box?

BTW the hose is not leaking at the power steering site and is kind of expensive.

What are the symptoms of a failing/bad steering box? I hope the continous noise is related just to the pump and not a bad steering box.

The undersite of the engine was soked before power wash, which might have been the power steering fluid and after power wash there is still no visible leak. If there was a leak, would it have shown by now after around 70miles?

At least the engine oil seems to have been changed every 3K miles and the oil now is fairly clean (5-30) do I need to use the Gunk for flushing before my planned oil change with 10-40 Mobile 1 high mileage? Rutela only had the 5-40 and 15-40. MI is too cold right now for 15-40 and I have noted the engine ticking and wanted a higher weight oil.

If I need to use the Gunk, do I need to put a new cheap filter or the old filter should be good?

Would it be safe with the gunk in to drive it for few miles to the shop?

The Pictures for induction cleaning are showing a plastic cup on a tube to which the sea foam needs to be routed. In my car the part is attached to a tube that goes into a black box on the passenger site. So how do i do the induction cleaning? just taking out the hose?

Front Wiper blades are not adhearing too the windshield very well, I was wondering if I could just get the spring or do I need to replace the whole arm? Which is also fairly expensive

Driver site door makes a klincking sound at one spot, when opening. I couldn't pin it down to anything, would some grease help? I also had the same sound in my 1996 Disco, but that one was full of rust and very old, this one does not have any sig rust

There is no warning light for doors or hoods not completely closed, right?

I thank every body for the help already provided and in adavance for help to the above questions.

Regards,
Hamid

 

I'll throw out some ideas on some of this.

5-40 Rotella synthetic will be fine for your temp zone, widely available in USA.

Since you have a "new" Rover, maybe not use Gunk and spring for a BG44 flush see BG Findashop for a shop near you. Most flush systems are better used at idle than at higher speeds, driving to shop, etc. If you do gunk, do it down the street from oil change place and don't drive too far.

They also offer an induction cleaning which will do more than SeaFoam. However, if you want to do your own Seafoam, just remove a vacuum line from oil separator on passenger side valve cover and let engine sip it in. You don't use the whole can, only about 5 ounces. Pour the rest in the fuel tank. Pix below.

 

On the wiper arms, some suggest converting back to pre-owned D1 arms from salvage or dismantler, cheaper blades available.

 

I never heard about the BG service, I called them and each service costs 80-100 transmission was more expensive. so for the fuel and engine it would be around $200, so at least 150 more than home induction and gunk. Do you think this is worth it and I should do it?

 

I also found BG products on ebay, both for fuel system and as engine oil additive. That's probably not going to be as effective as the shop service, right?

 

This is a good idea, will look for some. But anybody tried a new spring to fix the problem aside from new arms?

 

and is this conversion just bolt on or needs extra parts?

 

You can certainly use the Gunk and the SeaFoam. I have, and it is also a good way to find any exhaust leaks. Since I have a D1, can't speak to exact parts needed for wiper conversion, but a quick search of our site should pop some up.

 

D1 wiper arms on a D2 are simply bolt on. Unbolt old arms, bolt on new ones. Just make sure you get the D1 nut cover, because it differs from the D2 cover.

 

1) Yes, they always do. I use a bit of Hylomar, or your favorite gasket sealant on the pump side above the bulge and then attach the hose, twisting it to distribute the sealant. Keeps that inevitable leaks at bay.

2) Yes, high pressure O-Rings at the box QED100120 and QED100130 and Low pressure O-rings at the box QED100110 and QED100010. Also O-Ring high pressure to the pump QYX100260. The hose is so long because the metal loop under the radiator acts as a cooling mechanism. Keep an eye on it as they like to corrode.

3) There's a bleed screw on the left hand/drivers side of the adjustment screw. It looks just like a brake bleed nipple. It's really not an issue, however. Fluid doesn't go spraying when you pull the lines it just runs everywhere.

4) Pretty bullet proof - major steering slop and binding when turning the wheel. Issues are VERY rare.

5) Don't ask why but the spring isn't officially available separately, maybe aftermarket - nothing particularly magical about the spring so a suitable substitute should be able to be found. That being said, MSRP on Genuine replacement arms is $41.42 which I think is pretty cheap considering wiper blades are $23.

6) probably the door checker - the thin metal strap in the middle. Greasing it should may help.

7) Correct, no warning lights.