The shop that replaced my t-case said done carefully, they removed and replaced w/out droping the crossmember or y-pipe, but the exhaust from the Y back has to be removed. The t-case has to very-carefully supported while unbolted so it does not drop at all, then they said they were able to slide it backwardsto clear the Y. I also remember them saying something about to do it that way, the mounts had to come off with the t-case, and not left bolted to the frame.

 

The bolts on the Crossmember are stupid. 10mm heads on large studs. So get a 10mm 6pt socket. Only good part is you can spray penetrating oil in the top of the threads by looking in the side of the crossmember. I used Seafoam Deep creep. I also used a breaker bar. I got all of them to turn except one...of course :0 ...so I have a set of craftsman head bolt extractors. they bit in and I was able turn it. I replaced all those bolts with stainless with regular heads. I also put anti-sieze on them.

I agree on not replacing the output bearings. If there is not excessive side to side play they are fine. Replacing the output seals might be a good idea though.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm going to go the "standard" route and remove the Y-pipe and cross member, so I'll be ready to extract/replace those bolts. I also grabbed new gaskets and studs for the exhaust as I've been told those tend to need to be replaced.

Any other tips?

 

Thinking about having some "heat" hand for stubborn bolts. Would something simple like this work?

 

PB blast every bolt a day or two in advance (so exhaust heats it up for you), and again before you start. PB has never let me down. Good luck.

 

6pt - 10mm 3/8 drive socket - CHECK
Screw/Bolt Extractor Kit - CHECK

I love Sears gift cards

Now to pick up another can of PB Blaster....