180 Degree Thermostat: Genuine or Aftermarket? from whom?
#11
12-21-2015, 03:34 PM
#12
12-21-2015, 05:23 PM
OK, my son has a D2 that he was given and completely rebuilt the engine on it (all the way down to top hat sleeves).
The reason for the rebuild -- and why it was given to him -- was a slipped sleeve, so I am very tuned in to overheating issues.
As part of the rebuild, we replaced the 192 thermostat with a an aftermarket 180 version from British Atlantic. (black casing)
After about 2 months of working quite well -- temp never got above 190 in Texas in August (measured via ECU using a bluetooth ODB2 adapter and Torque app on an android phone) -- the ECU starting throwing a "not reaching operating temp" code, and the temperature never got above 175-180.
Frankly, I would have kept that thermostat in except for the code it threw.
B-A was kind enough to honor the warranty and sent a new 180 degree thermostat, however, this time the casing was that opaquish yellow instead of black.
We put it in -- along with two new temp sensors for good measure -- but never checked it to confirm it was operating at 180.
My son just came back from college this week and we made a 300 mile round-trip yesterday, so I decided to track the temp on the OBD2. It ranged between 204 and 209 according to the Torque app. We probably averaged 65 mph, little/no stop-and-go and the air temp was as high as 70 and as low as 50 during the trip (coolant temp tracked to ambient air temp -- when air was 50 degrees, coolant was 205 and when air was 70, coolant was 209). I think that operating in that range probably wasn't bad for the motor (right?), but I would still like to get it to run lower before Texas summer sneaks up on us in March (no time for Spring here).
So my first question is you think whether B-A sent me a 192 thermostat by mistake or did they send me a 180 that just prematurely failed the other way -- instead of sticking open like the first one, this one is sticking at least partly closed?
My second question is if they did send me the wrong version or if it failed quickly again, where I should order my next one (if in fact B-A made a mistake, should I give them another shot) and what brand I should get: generic, motorrad, genuine Land Rover other something else.
Given how much time and effort my son put into rebuilding this motor, I really want to get this right -- and as simple as it is, don't want to have to be changing thermostats every couple of months until I find the "correct" one.
If anyone can shed some wisdom/light on this Quixotic search for THE thermostat, it would be greatly appreciated.
The reason for the rebuild -- and why it was given to him -- was a slipped sleeve, so I am very tuned in to overheating issues.
As part of the rebuild, we replaced the 192 thermostat with a an aftermarket 180 version from British Atlantic. (black casing)
After about 2 months of working quite well -- temp never got above 190 in Texas in August (measured via ECU using a bluetooth ODB2 adapter and Torque app on an android phone) -- the ECU starting throwing a "not reaching operating temp" code, and the temperature never got above 175-180.
Frankly, I would have kept that thermostat in except for the code it threw.
B-A was kind enough to honor the warranty and sent a new 180 degree thermostat, however, this time the casing was that opaquish yellow instead of black.
We put it in -- along with two new temp sensors for good measure -- but never checked it to confirm it was operating at 180.
My son just came back from college this week and we made a 300 mile round-trip yesterday, so I decided to track the temp on the OBD2. It ranged between 204 and 209 according to the Torque app. We probably averaged 65 mph, little/no stop-and-go and the air temp was as high as 70 and as low as 50 during the trip (coolant temp tracked to ambient air temp -- when air was 50 degrees, coolant was 205 and when air was 70, coolant was 209). I think that operating in that range probably wasn't bad for the motor (right?), but I would still like to get it to run lower before Texas summer sneaks up on us in March (no time for Spring here).
So my first question is you think whether B-A sent me a 192 thermostat by mistake or did they send me a 180 that just prematurely failed the other way -- instead of sticking open like the first one, this one is sticking at least partly closed?
My second question is if they did send me the wrong version or if it failed quickly again, where I should order my next one (if in fact B-A made a mistake, should I give them another shot) and what brand I should get: generic, motorrad, genuine Land Rover other something else.
Given how much time and effort my son put into rebuilding this motor, I really want to get this right -- and as simple as it is, don't want to have to be changing thermostats every couple of months until I find the "correct" one.
If anyone can shed some wisdom/light on this Quixotic search for THE thermostat, it would be greatly appreciated.
#13
12-22-2015, 06:41 AM
Q&E in Ananheim.
Q and E ? Engine & Machine Shop / Q&E
They did the sleeves and pressed in cam bearings as well. Took a while (3 weeks) as they didn't have the sleeves in stock and had to wait for them from UK, but they did a good job except my local machine shop had to do a little honing clean-up at the top of the cylinders so the pistons would go in (there was a little "lip" left at the top of the sleeves: could have been the sleeves themselves or when Q&E honed them, but only $50 worth of clean-up). About 4K miles on the engine and so far, so good.
Once it is stripped down to a bare block, it only weighs 75Lbs packed so you can ship it UPS.
We used the appropriately-sized moving box from Home Depot and lined it with a frame made of furring strips (1x2s) and 1/8" plywood. Stood up very well under the shipping out and back.
Check my other posts as I posted a pdf and excel ss of my entire parts list of everything we needed to do a rebuild special including tools (about $2,800 including the new sleeves and machining work).
Q and E ? Engine & Machine Shop / Q&E
They did the sleeves and pressed in cam bearings as well. Took a while (3 weeks) as they didn't have the sleeves in stock and had to wait for them from UK, but they did a good job except my local machine shop had to do a little honing clean-up at the top of the cylinders so the pistons would go in (there was a little "lip" left at the top of the sleeves: could have been the sleeves themselves or when Q&E honed them, but only $50 worth of clean-up). About 4K miles on the engine and so far, so good.
Once it is stripped down to a bare block, it only weighs 75Lbs packed so you can ship it UPS.
We used the appropriately-sized moving box from Home Depot and lined it with a frame made of furring strips (1x2s) and 1/8" plywood. Stood up very well under the shipping out and back.
Check my other posts as I posted a pdf and excel ss of my entire parts list of everything we needed to do a rebuild special including tools (about $2,800 including the new sleeves and machining work).
#15
12-22-2015, 08:14 AM
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