1999 D2 Cranks, No Spark, No Power to Pump. Long story short, bought the truck as a no-start from a ex-wife of the owner, Parked it in march( when they split, she had other car) , batt. went dead, put in new battery now- 3 months later- no start. Just cranks, I have no spark, also no power to fuel pump but power at inertia switch on both sides. Seems to me something electrical with the immoblizer, just because it was like a rain forrest inside when I got it, The sunroof drains where clogged from the tree it was under, and the int had some water intrusion, Everything else works on the truck. key fob locks and unlocks, red light on dash goes out when you unlock the truck. Also SES light stays on while cranking. I started with the fuel pump, replaced with another i had in the garage, then realized it wasnt priming still , checked it and have no power to pump , Swapped relays around, checked all fuses under dash and under hood. Did a comp. check, yielded over 180lbs in every cylinder. I figured I'll throw it out there for you guys to chew on a lil, If not my friend is a service tech at a LR dealer, And has a small Indy shop, and has all the land rover diag tools and said when he gts a chance will swing by my house to plug in his scanner on it.
TIA,
Austin

 

Sounds like the alarm didnt like being with no power for so long.
This has happened to others, went to Iraq and came back 12 months later to a dead battery, new battery and still no start.
The alarm needs power all the time for some reason.
If you had fuel but no spark then it would be the crank sensor which is a common fail point on DII's.

 

Have you reset the inerita switch yet, any change? Quit throwing parts at it, you have a bad crank sensor and if you want more information send me your tele number.

 

Thanks for the quick reply, I suspected the crank sensor as well, but, just a quick visual diag, the SES light remains on during cranking, And the pump dosnt prime when switching to position 2 on the key, In my thinking the pump should still prime without crank signal as its part of the start up sequence, pre turnover, so it wouldn't required crank imput.

 

The crank sensor controls spark and the cam sensor controls injector timing.
Your fuel pump is not coming on at all so it is either a bad relay, which you said you replaced, a bad fuel pump, which you said you replaced, so it has to be a alarm problem.
You can try resetting the alram, you turn the key in the drivers door lock 3 times to the lock? position. So using the key lock the door three times without unlocking it.
See if that works.

 

If the crank sensor does not send a signal to the ECU showing the engine cranking, the ECU will not send a signal to the fuel pump to trigger it.

 

Well, New crank sensor will be in tomarrow, I'll stick that in and if no luck, I'll call my rover friend. I did notice that the drivers valve cover is leaking and running directly down to the sensor. So fingers crossed... and I guess I'll order a MAF too if the crank sensor fixes it, as I just pulled a P0734 code on the truck as well. If not there may be a cheap discovery II up for sale.

 

Buy a 8mm 12 point 1/4" drive socket and snug up the valve cover bolts to fix your leak.
$3 at Sears.

 

Already had a 12 point 8mm from the last disco 2.... I ended up doing an engine in, But I also bought it with a rod hanging through the block, And believe it or not still ran and drove minus a minced piston, these little buick variants are tuff. But any way, Crank sensor fixed it , Fired right up. Now gotta get a maf tomarrow, and finish the engine degrease, and drivetrain degrease. Amazingly the truck already has a zerked front shaft, Guess that people finally found out you cant just keep driving them with a rumble in the front, I also had one with a very nice "window" in the side of the trans, at one point in time that I bought from a guy to get him out of a huge mess but thats adiff story for another time.