2 Inch Lift Recommendations
Mudding
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 158
Likes: 45
You mean +2 on the rear only? The front distances wouldn't change with a spacer.
Mudding
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 176
Likes: 72
Good point on the tires, try to avoid load range E tires. I have the Mickey Thompson baja boss AT in XL load rating. With the spacer lift the front stock shocks will work fine if you aren't looking for max articulation as the spacers move the lower shock mounts up so you retain the same shock geometry. You will need +2" shocks for the rear even with spacers. I had the Fox shocks and swapped them out for the TF 4 stage because the Fox's were way too stiff.
Mudding
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 158
Likes: 45
Good point on the tires, try to avoid load range E tires. I have the Mickey Thompson baja boss AT in XL load rating. With the spacer lift the front stock shocks will work fine if you aren't looking for max articulation as the spacers move the lower shock mounts up so you retain the same shock geometry. You will need +2" shocks for the rear even with spacers. I had the Fox shocks and swapped them out for the TF 4 stage because the Fox's were way too stiff.
TReK
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,954
Likes: 751
From: British Columbia Canada
Earlier this year I installed a 2” OME MD set all around (front and rear). I really like it. It’s very comfortable on the road and is better off road than my originals. I think this is how LR should have sold these stock.
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 45
Likes: 9
From: Northern Virginia
Casual,
This is is right here. Also, I firmly believe shocks play a greater(not the only) role in ride quality. Stiff springs will be stiff, but shocks that soak up the road imperfections are where it is at. My own inclination would be to figure out what you are after for ride quality, get in touch with someone like Bilstein tech support, and find a 5100 series with the valving to make it happen. I had TF coils with TF shocks, but the shocks were too short. Ride quality was hampered considerably. I did some research and got a good deal on some Jeep JLU monotube shocks. Modified them to fit. The fronts are great. The rear is cush... Too cush... It bounces all over. This is where someone from a tech support could render guidance with regard to weight of the vehicle and damping characteristics. If the lift and tires are a must, I think the idea of spacers and shocks is good. Lower spring rate of the factory coils plus shocks to match. I cannot validate with measurements, but the TF coils I had sagged. That didn't break or anything, but you may lose some height over time, which brings you back to spacers or different springs. I don't think you can go wrong as there is always a way to fix any issue you may have. I think OME has a smaller chance of sagging. I would definitely be on the hunt for the right shock though.
This is is right here. Also, I firmly believe shocks play a greater(not the only) role in ride quality. Stiff springs will be stiff, but shocks that soak up the road imperfections are where it is at. My own inclination would be to figure out what you are after for ride quality, get in touch with someone like Bilstein tech support, and find a 5100 series with the valving to make it happen. I had TF coils with TF shocks, but the shocks were too short. Ride quality was hampered considerably. I did some research and got a good deal on some Jeep JLU monotube shocks. Modified them to fit. The fronts are great. The rear is cush... Too cush... It bounces all over. This is where someone from a tech support could render guidance with regard to weight of the vehicle and damping characteristics. If the lift and tires are a must, I think the idea of spacers and shocks is good. Lower spring rate of the factory coils plus shocks to match. I cannot validate with measurements, but the TF coils I had sagged. That didn't break or anything, but you may lose some height over time, which brings you back to spacers or different springs. I don't think you can go wrong as there is always a way to fix any issue you may have. I think OME has a smaller chance of sagging. I would definitely be on the hunt for the right shock though.
This is what I’ve been planning on doing. Just wanted to be sure I made the right decision before pulling the trigger. I’ve read a lot of posts saying the OME MD is less stiff than the MD TF, and in fact the MD TF springs are on the same level as the OME HD. However looking at the spring rate of each, they look the same so I’m not sure if TF adjusted their product and those posts are just old.
Mudding
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 176
Likes: 72
I appreciate you being upfront. Even if it is a bit discouraging, I am still going to do it. If I regret it after, I’ll buy you a bourbon
Thanks Mike! I took your advice yesterday and reached out to a number of manufacturers and retailers to get some information. Only one responded as of yet but I’ll give the other ones some time
yeah I’m still debating which AT to go with. I’m leaning towards Wildpeaks as I love the look and the wet traction but my brain tells me to be more reasonable and go with a more street oriented AT
This is what I’ve been planning on doing. Just wanted to be sure I made the right decision before pulling the trigger. I’ve read a lot of posts saying the OME MD is less stiff than the MD TF, and in fact the MD TF springs are on the same level as the OME HD. However looking at the spring rate of each, they look the same so I’m not sure if TF adjusted their product and those posts are just old.
Thanks Mike! I took your advice yesterday and reached out to a number of manufacturers and retailers to get some information. Only one responded as of yet but I’ll give the other ones some time
yeah I’m still debating which AT to go with. I’m leaning towards Wildpeaks as I love the look and the wet traction but my brain tells me to be more reasonable and go with a more street oriented AT
This is what I’ve been planning on doing. Just wanted to be sure I made the right decision before pulling the trigger. I’ve read a lot of posts saying the OME MD is less stiff than the MD TF, and in fact the MD TF springs are on the same level as the OME HD. However looking at the spring rate of each, they look the same so I’m not sure if TF adjusted their product and those posts are just old.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 46
Likes: 14
Casual,
The Wildpeaks are awesome! I had a set of 33s on a first Gen Dodge Durango. They handled really well in the snow too. Mud terrains may give you some road noise, but most modern all terrains are very quiet and comfortable on road. I wouldn't worry too much about the load range (ply rating). The Wildpeaks use a fabric sidewall construction which allows the tire to flex a lot more. We use steel belted sidewall construction at work. Those are incredibly stiff. You can always ask to go put your hands on a set of tires to see. Grab the sidewall and feel it. Then ask if they have any load range G tires. You should feel the difference.
As far as the springs, I had the TF042 and TF023V springs. The rears are progressive. I think (not certain) that I had the TF118 and TF119 shocks. Changing from those shocks to some modified Jeep JLU Rubicon shocks altered the way it rode. That's why I suggest the shocks. Same springs and different shocks can alter the ride quality. That being said, the TF springs did sag. I think OME would hold is shape better. My D2 always had 32s since before I got it. Performance does suffer, but it's never going to be a race car. The only caveat would be if you plan to tow at any point. Again, not impossible, but it may be miserable to tow with that hit to power.
The Wildpeaks are awesome! I had a set of 33s on a first Gen Dodge Durango. They handled really well in the snow too. Mud terrains may give you some road noise, but most modern all terrains are very quiet and comfortable on road. I wouldn't worry too much about the load range (ply rating). The Wildpeaks use a fabric sidewall construction which allows the tire to flex a lot more. We use steel belted sidewall construction at work. Those are incredibly stiff. You can always ask to go put your hands on a set of tires to see. Grab the sidewall and feel it. Then ask if they have any load range G tires. You should feel the difference.
As far as the springs, I had the TF042 and TF023V springs. The rears are progressive. I think (not certain) that I had the TF118 and TF119 shocks. Changing from those shocks to some modified Jeep JLU Rubicon shocks altered the way it rode. That's why I suggest the shocks. Same springs and different shocks can alter the ride quality. That being said, the TF springs did sag. I think OME would hold is shape better. My D2 always had 32s since before I got it. Performance does suffer, but it's never going to be a race car. The only caveat would be if you plan to tow at any point. Again, not impossible, but it may be miserable to tow with that hit to power.
Mudding
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 158
Likes: 45
One thing I found interesting in my search is that OME is a 1.5" lift, and their shocks are not longer than stock unless you go with their 30025L versions. I really can't understand why OME and retailers don't make all of this more clear somehow.
Wouldn't this be more of a differential gearing issue?
Wouldn't this be more of a differential gearing issue?
DAP (nvm they were bearmach which is no more 
. ) big blue springs on this, my text I had written up got deleted...perfect look though for a 265/75.
Gearing helps some but does not solve the lack of power for going up in tire size, especially at elevation. Not a lot of oxygen 5k+ feet.
Do not run load E rated tires in an unloaded truck you will hate it. No suspension set up will make up for that.
A 4.6 might help some more but still going to be not a whole lot of a help (at least where I live).
Manufactures keep the suspension stuff vague as every truck is different. You want to really dial it in then you won't be buying TF or OME shocks. For 2" of lift and a street driven truck you won't really notice the shock lengths, should you upsize? yes, will you destroy stock length shocks? no.
. ) big blue springs on this, my text I had written up got deleted...perfect look though for a 265/75. Gearing helps some but does not solve the lack of power for going up in tire size, especially at elevation. Not a lot of oxygen 5k+ feet.
Do not run load E rated tires in an unloaded truck you will hate it. No suspension set up will make up for that.
A 4.6 might help some more but still going to be not a whole lot of a help (at least where I live).
Manufactures keep the suspension stuff vague as every truck is different. You want to really dial it in then you won't be buying TF or OME shocks. For 2" of lift and a street driven truck you won't really notice the shock lengths, should you upsize? yes, will you destroy stock length shocks? no.
Last edited by whowa004; Sep 26, 2024 at 09:42 AM.