Hi guys, I'm hoping someone might be able to help me with a problem I'm having with 2001 D2 SE. A couple of weeks ago my front right window stopped working. I could hear the regulator motor working and a "tick tick tick" sound, but the window wouldn't go up. All of my other windows work fine.

I removed the entire window regulator assembly and inspected it (note: the plastic roller bushings are fine) and decided to order a new motor. Unfortunately, after installing the new motor it seems I no longer have any power. I have tried the following:

1. Checked the fuse - It looks fine but I tried putting a new 30amp fuse in anyway.
2. Swapped out the switch by plugging into the (working) drivers-side switch.
3. Tried plugging in just the window motor to the door harness without it being connected to the regulator braces.
4. Tried #3 with the old motor as well - nada.

One thing of note: The new motor I ordered Part# CUR100440 has the wiring permanently afixed while the old motor comes with a clip that allows you to unplug it from the motor like you see at 13:36 of this video . The harness plug ends are identical.

Any thoughts or suggestions? My fear is I somehow damaged the door harness wiring or something else when I initially took it apart. I gave the wiring a visual inspection (as best I could) and I don't see any damage but who knows. I'm out of ideas.

Thank you!

 

Yah, ill wait fir some suggestions or fix. Got same issue here.

 

First lets do some simple 101 Electrical troubleshooting here......

Have you taken a meter to the power window motor leads, with the key on position II, and held them into the power window motor leads while operating the switch to see if you're even getting 12v at the door? Okay if you've verified you don't have anything the next step is to remove your kick panel down on the passenger side. You should be able to see the rubber grommet where the door wiring comes inside the D2. Now follow that and you should see a plug where you can unplug it and test for continuity back to the power window motor connector. If you don't get continuity between the pair then most likely you have a broken wire (just fixed this on my friends D2) You can carefully remove the rubber grommet from the D2 & the passenger door. Look to see if the wires are broken inside the grommet. If they are bingo you've found your problem and you can simply repair the wires, re secure the grommet, install your window motor/regulator and call it a day.

Now if that isn't the issue and you have continuity when testing from inside the D2 to the power window motor lead you then need to start tracing back further inside the D2 basically to the fuse block.

 

This is helpful. I have yet to take a meter to it simply because I need to buy one. I'll circle back with my findings. Thank you.

 

If you suspect a bad motor, you can connect it directly to the battery with jumper wires.
If you don't have a meter, you can use a test light. Or hook up any 12v bulb in place of the motor. See if it lights in either direction, or both, when the switch is pressed.
Can you hear a relay click when you try the switch?

 

Wire between the dioors got cut off

 

Figured as much.

I use those 3M inline connectors that also have heat shrink on them. Gives the wire a little more slack & it's 100% waterproof when you've heated it up.

 

Butt splices?
......

 

I was rushing earlier and cant find those stuff in my house. Anyway, most of the time I use JB Weld instead of soldering. often I dont use shrink wrap or butt connectors. JB weld is non conductor and I use it a lot instead of soldering and I dont need to insulate the connections. Often they are stronger than butt connectors especially when its on a joint where the wire moves a lot.

 

Yes the proper term is 3M Butt Splice, but at work we call them inline splice.