OK so about one month ago i purchased the above Disco for my wife. Not my first choice but she had to have it. Truck seemed to be in great shape and it was a great deal. We drove the truck for abour 250 miles and started to have overheating problems in the long distance (10-100 miles). So i made the following changes.

New expansion chamber (OEM Part)
New Radiator top and bottom hoses (OEM Part)
New thermostat x 2 (OEM Part)
New radiator (OEM part)

Engine would now overheat after driving it 2 miles or less. So here goes round 2...

Pro Head gasket job
Machined and miced heads
New water pump
All new gaskets all the way around
Flan Clutch tested
holds pressure
no cross contaminatin of oil and coolant
no exaust gas contamination in the coolant system

Engine still overheats in a matter of blocks.....

Please help, i have no idea what else this BIT** needs.

 

Is the belt routed correctly? You may just want to double check even if you're pretty sure this is correct. Can't think of anything else right off hand that would cause this. ???
Good Luck!

 

Describe the overheating. Does the gauge go up and down? Does it heat up depending on what speed you are going?

Perhaps the system was not bled properly and you may have some air in there. You said gaskets all around, does that include the throttle body heater plate?

 

x2 on that, any leaks at all and you could get some air in there.

 

All gaskets including the throtle body gasket (8 days just to get it in!). The gauge goes from ok to hot in a matter of seconds. As far as speed, if you keep it under 40 miles an hour no issues before the head gasket change. Now after it overheats at any speed over 20 mph or so.

 

Belt is routed per the diagram provided from LR

 

Hm. I know that when my hg went out I could only drive the truck at around 35 mph, any faster and it would overheat. As dumb as me driving it sounds I was lucky to have mine leaking externally and I had to limp home.

Do you see any coolant in the oil? Is it milky? Do you have to top off the coolant reservoir? (EDIT nvm, you mentioned no contamination)

What type of water pump did you buy? Many here have had issues with anything other than Land Rover genuine pumps.

 

Wow, you have done everything. But IMHO an engine can't go from cold crank to overheat in 20 seconds, it just does not generate that much heat.

The obscure things to have them consider:

1. The techs are going by the heat guage - use a data reading scanner to confirm.

2. The sensor that drives the guage and the ECM could be defective

3. An infrared thermometer can be used to confirm hot spots if guage is suspect.

4. Thermostat installed backwards (would not be the first time)

5. Internal obstruction, like left over RTV sealant, sponge, rag, a bottle of stop leak put in by previous owner, packing material stuffed in radiator. Radiator should be checked for hot/cold areas, indicating internal blockage.

6. Belt route - see our tech section on the forum, or free download of the RAVE set of complete tech manuals (see below for link)

7. Water pump gasket failed allowing cross over, or impeller lose on shaft. Gasket is $3, remove new WP and inspect. Pix shows an old and newer pump, uses a complex gasket, not just around the perimeter. Old WP wobbled and ate up aluminum, if it also did this on the front bulkhead of the engine might have made a penetration, which shop should have caught when replacing WP.

8. Slipped liner does not sound like it since you have a negative combustion gas test. Might want to do a mechanical oil pressure test both cold and hot, at idle and 2000 rpm.

 

Alaska,
Send me your number and I'll call you later today, in the mean time, stop throwing parts at it and don't drive it.