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2001 Disco SE7 won't start...

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  #1  
Old 07-15-2013 | 10:05 PM
floundering's Avatar
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Default 2001 Disco SE7 won't start...

Has spark. Fuel tank has at least 10 gallons of fuel. Cranks but won't turn over. When checking for fuel pressure at Schrader valve, (just depressing the valve) there does not seem to be much difference in the amount of fuel that is released when cranking vs. not cranking.
Will turn over for a second with a brief squirt of starting fluid...
My belief is the fuel pump is bad. So I need to know if I'm on the right track. How do I test the pump with a volt meter, what readings, what pins on the connector, key on or key off etc. I've already cleared access to the pump.

Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction so I can move on to rebuilding my front prop...

110K miles
 
  #2  
Old 07-16-2013 | 01:04 AM
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Let us sync our ideas. To me, crank mean engine turns when asked to by ignition key, and belt moves, etc. Start means the the engine continues to run after you release the ignition key.

So I'll suspect that when you try to start the truck, it cranks, but won't run on by itself.

Reset your inertia switch on the firewall, it kills the fuel pump in a wreck.

If you feel that you have spark, perhaps by attaching a spare plug and cranking... then your crank shaft position sensor should be OK.

You should hear the fuel pump for a couple of seconds when key is turned to position 2.

I will also assume you have not triggered alarm or immobilization. No red alarm light on dash.

Fuel pump makes a good bit of pressure, on a D2 the spec is 50 PSI. Fuse 10 in the underhood box (30 amp) is the fuel pump. It also has a relay in that same box.

At the pump (pix attached) it is white with purple as the hot lead that brings 12 volts to run the pump, and black that carries it back to metal frame ground. The frame ground is actually back under the hood on a stud. It is connector C810.
 
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Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 07-16-2013 at 01:09 AM.
  #3  
Old 07-16-2013 | 06:14 AM
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Thanks Buzz!
Correct in that in won't start. Inertia switch was checked. Fuses and relays swapped. Spark tester used was an inline variety, from plug wire to ground. I've been reading this forum to diagnose and correct the issue. It's been a lot of help, and fun!
When I listen, with my ear against the pump (access panel removed), all I hear is a faint click at the pump when turning the key. Thank god for really long arms!
But no whirring pump noise of any kind.
Alarm appears to be functioning correctly. After set it flashes quickly for 10 secs or so. There is no red light after unlocking with fob.

Fuel pump??? Please say yes, I hate electrical issues!
 
  #4  
Old 07-16-2013 | 06:56 AM
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you should get a fuel pressure gauge on it, for testing purposes you could probably get away with a cheap tire gauge
 
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Old 07-16-2013 | 07:35 AM
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My money is on a failing crank position sensor.
 
  #6  
Old 07-16-2013 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
you should get a fuel pressure gauge on it, for testing purposes you could probably get away with a cheap tire gauge

I made one last night! Had most of the parts laying around. I'll test it later today. Shouldn't I be able to hear the pump turn on though?
 
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Old 07-16-2013 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
My money is on a failing crank position sensor.

Mike, could a failing crank sensor keep the pump from functioning?
 
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Old 07-16-2013 | 07:22 PM
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Replaced the CPS. Still no start... any recommendations?
 
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Old 07-16-2013 | 07:41 PM
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CKP and fuel pump not linked. What pressure do you have when key in position 2? And do you have sparks now (some people mount CKP wrong and sparkls die)?
 
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Old 07-16-2013 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
CKP and fuel pump not linked. What pressure do you have when key in position 2? And do you have sparks now (some people mount CKP wrong and sparkls die)?

Just pulled a plug to test spark...my thoughts were the same, maybe I messed up install. Spark good, plug BONE DRY! My fuel pressure tester that I made is showing no pressure at test port. Checked the air in my tire with same gauge just to make sure it functioned correctly, it does. My next thought is to order that pump rebuild kit from ebay, but I can't seem to find the match... Do you think I'm on the right track? Can I bypass the inertia switch just to rule that out?
 


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