Just started happening tonight. I read many things. Fusebox/resistor packs, relays fuses.

I did a quick visual inspection of all fuses nothing apparent. It's cooler out now but in TX things get hot wierdly quick.

I need to know common areas of issue as well as members who have experienced this as well. I read a pretty baller write up about someone who used Digikey to do his replacement for the resistor pack. But where to even start. I did the diagnostic on the dash AC controller but it was in the garage and sun is down so I got the sunlight error codes. I'll need to redo this in the sun to see if something obvious pops out.

Any suggestions?

 

If both front and rear went out at the same time then it is not motor or resistor packs as front and rear have separate motor and pack. This points to the common bad fuse block under dash, between door and steering wheel. It's NOT the fuses, but block itself (and only the blower fuses part of the block). Apparently the solder inside cracks and fails under load. It will read read 12v at fuse but fails under load(insufficient amperage). You can dig out the power supply from back of block (brown with pink wire, and will have a connector(spade male or female) already attached). Pull power feed (coming from factory fuse) to blowers (one each) off same fuse block and connect with an inline fuse that matches fuses 6 & 7, as i recall. It should work now. If not, then may need to bypass the under hood fuse block. Same brown and pink wire under the hood at its origin. I have a write up with pictures from years ago. I ran a complete bypass to fuselink 4. I will search for it and post the link.

EDIT: link below

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...light=Fuselink

Check for power on brown /w pink wire under hood first, before digging out the wire connectors.