Annie, it's good to see your a member of the AZLRO. Too bad you couldn't go on the Mojave Road trip after Christmas, it would have been nice too meet you. Another time maybe. Especially since my mom is now retired in New River I have an excuse to get out to AZ more often.

 

I have this complex that my truck isn't ready for the off-road world. I KNOW that I'm incorrect and that a stock Disco does pretty well as is. My shocks are really bad though...I'd love to be able to replace my shocks and springs before I head to some better trails. I don't have the moolah right now.
The first thing I really need to do is get ready for my 60k and replace the front rotors with new pads all around.[sm=sigh.gif]

 

Anyone have a recommendation on where to pick up the appropriate greasable u-joints and centering ball? I just bought a 2003 Monday with 60k, and this post is making me not even want to drive it home from work! I'm assuming this is diy for a reasonably competent home mechanic?

Thanks,
Bryan

 

Go check your drive shaft today, if you don't have all 3 u-joints with grease fittings then start calling around today for a shop to rebuild it, DON'T wait till next week unless you have deep pockets.

 

DM, I will definitely take your advice. Can the rebuild by done on your own? i.e. are the u-joints and centering ball simple to replace? I've dealt with u-joints on my jeep, and they're very easy to replace. How about on the Discovery?

 

If you have experience with u-joints, that part is the same. If you are not experienced with double cardons then read below.


Re-posting my response to an earlier driveshaft question:


The centering ball kit is the only curve ball. It is pressed in. The old one has to be removed. If you can figure a way to securely attach it, a heavy slide hammer should pull it out. Otherwise, take a cold chisel to the sleeve around the ball (after you pop the ball out (you can use a heavy screw driver on the ball)). Chisel a split in the sleeve and remove. Note that there is (at least on my 2000 DII) a small lip under that sleeve at the top(beginning of split). Once past that lip the rest is a relatively easy straight shot. If you use a chisel, clean any burrs left by the chisel around that lip area. The new ball and sleeve presses in. Note: a 1 inch socket(as I recall) fits perfectly over the sleeve, and just inside the hole it is pressed into. Once seated, tap on the seal over the ball with the same socket.

When reassembling the double cardon, attach the shaft and yoke last. Assemble the guts of the double cardon first. The centering ball has to fit onto a pin with a spring in it. There will be a protective sleeve (on the new ball kit)holding the needle bearings in place with a new spring inside it. Remove sleeve and add some grease if you want since it's non-greasable after assembly, place onto the pin with the new spring. Be very, very careful not to misplace any needle bearings

Now the trick is to keep it together and assemble the two opposite posts of each u-joint together. Then finish the remaining u-joint posts to finish up. If you got greaseable zerks go ahead and top them off. Note that the u-joints are attached in typical fashion. As usual, be careful with the needle bearings when replacing a cap. If one (or more) falls in the cap when installing, the slot for the spring clip will be blocked by the cap. The needle is approx. the same thickness as the slot. If you do drop a needle or two, inspect them carefully, as they are relatively brittle because of their inherent hardness. A small chip can cause a lot of premature wear. Even if installed correctly, the tolerences of the caps and spring clips can be rather snug. Be sure the clips are seated before wrapping up.

Hope that helps.