Glad u got it fixed this board is the best reference when things go bad!

 

[QUOTE=handsome rob;220163]Ditto what Spike said. Those guys feel because they work at an auto parts store that they know everything about every vehicle.

I know what you mean, those guys have a hard enough time with running the register or being polite to customers.

 

I have a similar problem with my Disco 2, 2001 V8 petrol. Won't start when the engine is hot, occasionally stalls when driving and won't start again until the engine has completely cooled. Replaced the fuel pump initially, problem still persists. I've read alot about the CPS, but before I bite the bullet and buy one, is there any other way (remembering that I don't have a lot of tools in the garage) to check that this is the problem? Are there other possibilities that I should eliminate first?

A little background to the issue. I got stuck on the beach a few months ago and since then the engine started to run a little rough, but ONLY at intersections where I would wait for traffic and then accelerate to join the main road etc. It would hesitate, almost as if there was water in the fuel, then one day just before Christmas, it wouldn't start at all. I waited in the car for about 30 mins and then managed to get it started after some lengthy cranking. Then it ran just fine for a few days (although the hesitation was still there) until it died again after a brief stop at a friends house.

Any advice would be appreciated

 

sounds like classic CRANK position sensor to me. Someone mentioned pouring a bottle of water over the sensor to tool it to try and confirm that is the problem. I'd say that's an ok idea, but even if that doesn't make it start, I'd still replace it with those symptoms.

 

If crank position sensor, the water cool of trick works, and another test is to carry a new or used spark plug. When problem happens, unplug a spark wire and attach to plug, lay on exhaust mainfold, check for sparks when cranking. Crank sensor kills spark.

Here's a pix of it, it is bolted to engine and the tip is like 2mm away from flywheel, this makes a series of electrical pulses that the ECU reads. If you do the DIY change, be sure to draw where ebverything is, including the spacer. Lots of people get the spacer flipped around, and it still won't crank at all.

 

Hello ALL and Hi DISCO Mike!
My DISCO is experiencing the same issue for 3 days now.

I followed each step.
I can hear my fuel pump so that is not the culprit!
Did the same TS like what scootch61 did - unplug one wire - put a spark plug - checked for spark - THERE IS NO SPARK and this is after changing the Crank Position Sensor. I even bought a second CPS as I was thinking that I purchased a defective CPS.
My local mechanic advised me to get a new CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR which is around $270 PLUS...but that is shooting in the dark.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

PLEASE!!!!!

JOEinAZ

 

Seriously people? am reading more and ore about DISCO dying and wont start and everyone is pointing towards Crank Position Sensor.
I changed mine twice, new battery, all fuse are good - still no spark. I took it to a local euro garage and now after three days they are advising me to take it to the dealership.....anyone who has any advise please post - I am trying not to take it to the stealership.....

thank you.

 

Assuming that the crank sensor is installed correctly (you wouldn't believe how often it isn't)..... someone was suggesting a bad fuse box causing the problem.

 

quite offer they are re-installed with the spacers in the wrong location

 

2003 Land Rover Disco SE. 138,000miles



I had the typical shutting off when hot problem. Disco starts up fine. Ran for about 20 minutes then shut off, when hot. Would not restart until it is cool again eg overnight. Then It would start right up again when engine is cold.



Looking at forums, so I decided to change the CPS. Mine came to $54 at AutoZone with 20% off on-line coupon. It was a Bosch. The old one was also a Bosch.



Anyways – Jacked up the car and tried to remove CPS without removing the muffler pipe. I saw some people on this forum reported it can be done. Well it took a short 30minutes to take CPS out with the exhaust in place but 3hours!!! attempting to installing it WITH the muffler in place. Virtually impossible unless you have hands and arms of a 12 year old octopus fingers. I ended up removing the muffler to install it.

• Removing the CPS with the muffler pipe in place was really easy. After jacking up the car, used wobble extension(8-12”) with my ratchet and 7/8mm sockets to remove the CPS. Everything was soaking in oil and crood. Been awhile since I seen a car spewing oil like that. Back in the 90's American cars were like that. I had a 00 Durango I eventually sold with 285,000mile, original 4.7L engine, with no oil leaks. Anyways. DO NOT LOSE THE BOLTS AND NUTS for the CPS. I used a long screwdriver to push the connector section from the holding bracket. Then used a long thin screw driver to unclip the CPS from the engine connector at engine from top-side. . ˝hr only. I thought it would be as easy as ….

The fun part started trying to put everything back together, Bolting back the CPS is not the difficult part. It Is getting the connector back on to the engine plug. As I said extremely skinning arms and hands will definitely work for you. Anyone over 200lbs or close,. Forget it.



I thought I had the solution/eureka by unbolting the connector bracket from the fire-wall and making the connection off-line then bolting back on. No good. There just isn’t enough room to work. Problem is forearm cannot get past the exhaust to get a good grip on the connect ring sections.



After attempting for about 3 hours over two evenings I decided to pull the exhaust. And guess what? One of the exhaust bolts broke!! Damn!. On the second set of bolts I used WD40 and those came off like a charm. Lost one of the small nuts(they are tiny)for about ˝hr, finally found it, Initially tried using a substitute nut, didn’t work. They are probably M Bolts.



After the exhaust was removed it took me about 30minutes to get everything back on. It was still tough because of the limited space, even with the exhaust dropped.



When done, car started right up. No shutting off. Problem solved. Oh. One bolt is missing from the exhaust. Will tap it out in the Spring when weather is better.
CAUTION!! - exhaust gasket can bend when installing. Took awhile to realizing that is why exhaust wasn't going back in. Note size of the bolts for CPS shield. Delay there also.










I also had a problem with the coolant reservoir. One day I saw coolant dripping from underneath. I thought it was a radiator leak. Anyways after ˝ hr inspection I knew it wasn’t the radiator but looks like it was coming from the reservoir. It seems to be coming from underneath. I thought it was one of the tubes. There are 3 tubes attached to the reservoir plus a permanently attached overflow tube. It was easy to check since the reservoir pops out without using any tools. Apparently the reservoir was cracked underneath. Dry rot?.and one on top. I tried using epoxy and liquid steel weld for plastic. No good. Eventually ordered a aftermarket reservoir. Ebay for $50. Took about 4 days to come in. Installed it in 10 minutes. Problem solved.