2003 Land Rover Discovery II
#1
2003 Land Rover Discovery II
Hello guys. I just picked myself up a 2003 Discovery II. I drove it locally a few miles and it's getting kinda hot in my opinion. The gauge inside says coolant temp is good w the needle at the mid mark, yet the front end seems very hot to me. I've done some searching for the past week, reading and more reading... I've digested a pretty hefty amount of information.
First things first, I'm thinking of installing an aftermarket gauge tommorow. I have the type that splices into the radiator hose w a sensor. Any ideas where the best / better spot to be is...? Top, bottom, somewhere entirely different...??
2nd, if the radiator is clogging, a boil from a competent radiator shop costs half as much as a new aluminum radiator off eBay. Any ideas how to verify myself if the radiator is in fact bunk before changing it out for nothing.
And last but not least, I read the proper coolant is very important. Anyone know of a place to maybe order online the special good stuff...??? Thanks so much for any help. Jimmy
First things first, I'm thinking of installing an aftermarket gauge tommorow. I have the type that splices into the radiator hose w a sensor. Any ideas where the best / better spot to be is...? Top, bottom, somewhere entirely different...??
2nd, if the radiator is clogging, a boil from a competent radiator shop costs half as much as a new aluminum radiator off eBay. Any ideas how to verify myself if the radiator is in fact bunk before changing it out for nothing.
And last but not least, I read the proper coolant is very important. Anyone know of a place to maybe order online the special good stuff...??? Thanks so much for any help. Jimmy
#2
Welcome aboard!
by now you've read the gauge stays the same in the middle until just about death. at least 240° anyway.
Get yourself any flavor of OBDII reader. Way better to use the onboard sensor and computer than sticking anything foreign into your system.
Get the DEXCOOL (orange) out (flush well) and put in any flavor of 50/50 mix of green/blue stuff. Nothing special required.
The only time to buy a new Rad is after you've tried everything else. First thing is to get a genuine 180° LR thermostat. It's grey and about $70. And NO! The (cheaper) motorad is not as good and does not run as cool.
I've heard the radiators don't clean so well as the factory installed DEX has a tendency to sludge up if air/water/or blue coolant ever contact it.
A new aftermarket Nissens can be had for around $200 if you need to go that route.
However the radiator is usually the last thing to fail in the cooling system.
And finally as long as I'm giving out free advice, NEVER OVERHEAT IT!!!
Oh yeah, one more thing... Good luck and have fun!
by now you've read the gauge stays the same in the middle until just about death. at least 240° anyway.
Get yourself any flavor of OBDII reader. Way better to use the onboard sensor and computer than sticking anything foreign into your system.
Get the DEXCOOL (orange) out (flush well) and put in any flavor of 50/50 mix of green/blue stuff. Nothing special required.
The only time to buy a new Rad is after you've tried everything else. First thing is to get a genuine 180° LR thermostat. It's grey and about $70. And NO! The (cheaper) motorad is not as good and does not run as cool.
I've heard the radiators don't clean so well as the factory installed DEX has a tendency to sludge up if air/water/or blue coolant ever contact it.
A new aftermarket Nissens can be had for around $200 if you need to go that route.
However the radiator is usually the last thing to fail in the cooling system.
And finally as long as I'm giving out free advice, NEVER OVERHEAT IT!!!
Oh yeah, one more thing... Good luck and have fun!
Last edited by Dave03S; 06-27-2015 at 01:20 AM.
#3
If your slightly concerned for whatever reason, take it easy. What makes you think it's hot? 200 vs 240 would be tricky to gauge with a hand on a hose I'm thinking.
Spend $70 on an ultragauge. Read up here.
^^^^ is all right. Flush the orange stuff. Fit the lower temp genuine stat.
But get a gauge first. See what you are dealing with.
Welcome.
Spend $70 on an ultragauge. Read up here.
^^^^ is all right. Flush the orange stuff. Fit the lower temp genuine stat.
But get a gauge first. See what you are dealing with.
Welcome.
#4
I have an electric Sunpro gauge in mine that I put in the top hose. It runs about 5 degrees cooler than actual, but its plenty close enough for a reference point.
I agree, install a grey 180 t-stat and flush the cooling system for universal green.
These engine bays do get pretty warm, more than your average engine bay I think. I'm not really sure how you're checking tour temp, but I think that's worth throwing out there.
And yes, the factory in dash gauge is trash. I wouldn't trust it as far as I could kick it.
I agree, install a grey 180 t-stat and flush the cooling system for universal green.
These engine bays do get pretty warm, more than your average engine bay I think. I'm not really sure how you're checking tour temp, but I think that's worth throwing out there.
And yes, the factory in dash gauge is trash. I wouldn't trust it as far as I could kick it.
#5
#6
You need facts, not opinions or impressions.
The UltraGauge is a fantastic value for any Rover owner (1996 and newer). It will tell you your coolant temp without needing to cut into any of the plumbing. You can also be used in any other 1996 or newer vehicle sold in the US.
Order an UltraGauge as soon as possible. Plug it in and go for a drive. In my truck, regardless of the weather, I cruise between 190° and 195°. Stopped in traffic, etc. it will creep up to maybe 205°. That is with the standard thermostat. Perhaps I am lucky; a friend's truck set up the same as mine would run consistently between 210° and 215°. Those temps are a little on the high side but are acceptable.
Again, you need facts. Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the forum, but check your actual temps and get back to us.
The UltraGauge is a fantastic value for any Rover owner (1996 and newer). It will tell you your coolant temp without needing to cut into any of the plumbing. You can also be used in any other 1996 or newer vehicle sold in the US.
Order an UltraGauge as soon as possible. Plug it in and go for a drive. In my truck, regardless of the weather, I cruise between 190° and 195°. Stopped in traffic, etc. it will creep up to maybe 205°. That is with the standard thermostat. Perhaps I am lucky; a friend's truck set up the same as mine would run consistently between 210° and 215°. Those temps are a little on the high side but are acceptable.
Again, you need facts. Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the forum, but check your actual temps and get back to us.
#7
I gotcha w the not opinion thing, except the extra hot front end is what is leading me investigate further vs continuing to drive her. I ordered the gray 180* thermostat from RoversNorth.com as a start. Tommorow I'm heading over to a friend w a snap on scanner to see if we can get the temp readings like u guys say directly from the ODBII system.
Thanks so much for the help / replies.
Thanks so much for the help / replies.
#8
#9
By any chance, do you have the insulation in the hood. My cousin hood was getting really hot and he couldn't figure it out why?. I came to help him out and as soon as he opened the hood I noticed that it had not insulation attached to the inner part of the hood. Replaced the thermostat and a wrecking yard insulation and for the most part his temperature had stayed below 200. Don't forget to pay extra attention to properly bleeding the cooling system, best of luck......
#10
Thanks Lightining. Not sure about the insulation... I'll give a look tommorow. My hot situation isn't just the hood though. Driver fender and driver light was super hot to the touch...? Idk...?? I'll keep my eye on it better. Maybe I'm just over reacting.
I'm also going to be tackling a front engine cover and valve cover gaskets due to an oil leaky. I also have the notorious ticking. Some reading and searching has me believing I can inspect the oil pump gear while the front cover is off. I hope it turns out to be a simple fix bc it's darn annoying.
I'm also going to be tackling a front engine cover and valve cover gaskets due to an oil leaky. I also have the notorious ticking. Some reading and searching has me believing I can inspect the oil pump gear while the front cover is off. I hope it turns out to be a simple fix bc it's darn annoying.
Last edited by RSDEVIL; 07-02-2015 at 11:44 PM.