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Normally, l measure from center of each tie-rod (where grease zert is located, if it has them or not) on old track/tie-rod bar...then apply that diamention to the new track/tie-rod bar. This should keep you close or spot on, if it was right to begin with.
Ahh I wish I had known it was that easy. I would have tried it before I took it in to be aligned. Still got some sort of steering issue to work through. I need to tighten up the slack in the steering box but the torx screw ain't budging and I am coming close to stripping it. Might soak it down with some penetrating oil for a couple of days and try again on Saturday.
When you get it broke loose...do not make adjustment while wheels are straight. The gears/teeth wear in the centered position the most, since it spends most of its time in that position. However, the outer areas, which only see wear while turning, have very little wear. So, if you adjust it snug in centered position...it will be too tight in the outer, lock to lock, positions...and will shatter teeth on gear...and you'll have a scrap gearbox. Adjust in locked position, left or right, with wheels off the ground, work steering back and forth, engine off, feeling for any binding/resistance at all. If you any feel resistance,/sticky spots, readjust until smooth as glass. If you can't get the desired "play" while wheels are straight...then it may need to be rebuilt.
Thanks Deputy. Dumb question - you say adjust in the locked position but then say work steering back and forth. How can I do work the steering with the engine off and the steering wheel in the locked position?
Lock to lock, refers to fully turned in one direction or the other, side to side, right or left. Yes, the steering wheel will be allowed to turn freely, ignition on, but not running.
Normally, l measure from center of each tie-rod (where grease zert is located, if it has them or not) on old track/tie-rod bar...then apply that dimension to the new track/tie-rod bar. This should keep you close or spot on, if it was right to begin with.
This is exactly what I did when I replaced the drag link and track bar on my truck 3½ years ago. It worked great. The truck tracked very well before and does so still to this day.
CV: how is the acceleration with the 4.11 diffs compared to stock?
@XRAD Finally got around to testing this. A lot of variables here: 32” LT tires, heavy duty bumpers and sliders, Kent cam and the obviously the 4.11 gears with truetracs. Did a run in sport mode. Acceleration was smooth and no hunting while shifting.
Obviously it won’t win any races but I was nonetheless surprised how fast it was - relatively speaking. I actually chirped the tires! 🤣
Awesome to see the results, I grabbed an old G-tech pro from my buddy’s shop that we used to use when testing our mustangs and firebirds when we made changes before we would get to the strip. I will check my times and get a rear wheel horse power after I weigh my truck. I’m sure I’ll be behind your times as I still have the stock gearing and 33’s. Nice to see tho.
Well no joy on the used steering box. Already leaking like a sieve. Oh well - there goes another $400. Found a rebuilt one on rockauto (not just painted). In any case, it’s got to be better than the last one. Anybody need a used steering box? I’ve got 2!!!
Seems like they do more than a pain and clean job.
