2004 Disco
Camel Trophy
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,813
Likes: 1,331
From: Mission BC Canada
Start here
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...scovery-21328/
Get a code reader or arrange for the codes to be checked by someone you trust not the owner of truck.
But cooling is a big deal with these as it an aluminium engine. Get a cheap Elm 327 wireless code read and torque lite for your Android phone not sure what to use on an idevice. When you take the truck for a test drive plug the Elm 327 into the ODB port and monitor the temps while you drive at least 20 minutes.
If the owner will not allow you to do so walk away - that is a bad sign.
Have some coveralls and crawl underneath take a look for leaks before and after driving.
Ask for maintenance records when the last oil and coolant service was done - coolant should be annually and oil at least the same or every 6 months.
Check the CDL - both low range and diff lock - you do not have drive far a couple meters will do.
Check every switch, the heat and AC.
Ask point blank about water getting inside sun roofs, windshield, rear door seal. Check for rust yourself - passenger side and drives side seat bolts typically show it up. Check the headliner for sagging, this usually indicates water got inside somewhere.
Check the belt for tension, rad hoses etc.
Get an image of all the lights on the dash, that come on when turn the key, make sure they all work - there have been issues of lights being removed or taped over.
Lastly listen to the engine when it starts and is running - exhaust leaks and ticking which is what you are listening for.
It likely has secondary air - right side big back cylinder near the fire wall - it should make noise when the truck starts only briefly though
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...scovery-21328/
Get a code reader or arrange for the codes to be checked by someone you trust not the owner of truck.
But cooling is a big deal with these as it an aluminium engine. Get a cheap Elm 327 wireless code read and torque lite for your Android phone not sure what to use on an idevice. When you take the truck for a test drive plug the Elm 327 into the ODB port and monitor the temps while you drive at least 20 minutes.
If the owner will not allow you to do so walk away - that is a bad sign.
Have some coveralls and crawl underneath take a look for leaks before and after driving.
Ask for maintenance records when the last oil and coolant service was done - coolant should be annually and oil at least the same or every 6 months.
Check the CDL - both low range and diff lock - you do not have drive far a couple meters will do.
Check every switch, the heat and AC.
Ask point blank about water getting inside sun roofs, windshield, rear door seal. Check for rust yourself - passenger side and drives side seat bolts typically show it up. Check the headliner for sagging, this usually indicates water got inside somewhere.
Check the belt for tension, rad hoses etc.
Get an image of all the lights on the dash, that come on when turn the key, make sure they all work - there have been issues of lights being removed or taped over.
Lastly listen to the engine when it starts and is running - exhaust leaks and ticking which is what you are listening for.
It likely has secondary air - right side big back cylinder near the fire wall - it should make noise when the truck starts only briefly though
Last edited by Richard Gallant; May 28, 2018 at 08:26 PM.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 240
From: Alabama + Vegas + Texas
The ELM327 is cheap and a good idea above. Do that. Check your coolant temp with it while driving and check the error codes. Clear the codes. Drive more and see which codes return. Most error codes are trivial emissions-related. While driving, your app for the ELM327 will tell you if you are in closed loop or open loop mode. Closed loop is good.
If coolant temps never go over 207F no matter what you do, you are on track for a winner.
Don't overthink things. All British cars leak so don't freak out underneath. What you really want to see underneath the Rover is if it has rust or damage-repair welding.
What you really want to see is hard to get: whether the coolant level has dropped after driving and the engine has cooled off later. You can sort of get this if you see huge amounts of white smoke coming out of the exhaust (bad) or a steady stream of coolant/water flowing out of the tailpipe (typically bad, often a blown head gasket).
You know, test the brakes slow and then fast. Is A/C cold? Power steering works? Cruise control works?
These are old trucks. Don't set your expectations for a factory new vehicle.
You do want to know if the motor "ticks" loudly when idling. You do want to look at the color of the oil (black/sludgy is bad).
If price has good value vs condition and the title is clean, go for it!
If coolant temps never go over 207F no matter what you do, you are on track for a winner.
Don't overthink things. All British cars leak so don't freak out underneath. What you really want to see underneath the Rover is if it has rust or damage-repair welding.
What you really want to see is hard to get: whether the coolant level has dropped after driving and the engine has cooled off later. You can sort of get this if you see huge amounts of white smoke coming out of the exhaust (bad) or a steady stream of coolant/water flowing out of the tailpipe (typically bad, often a blown head gasket).
You know, test the brakes slow and then fast. Is A/C cold? Power steering works? Cruise control works?
These are old trucks. Don't set your expectations for a factory new vehicle.
You do want to know if the motor "ticks" loudly when idling. You do want to look at the color of the oil (black/sludgy is bad).
If price has good value vs condition and the title is clean, go for it!
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
Thanks, I have two in my search, one with a , said exhaust manifold crack, but lots of new work, the other, bit more cost, but maintained by a reputable known shop, all records and books. To me, books on euro cars are a must.
Will take your advice and look. Thank you all very much.
Will take your advice and look. Thank you all very much.
Thanks, I have two in my search, one with a , said exhaust manifold crack, but lots of new work, the other, bit more cost, but maintained by a reputable known shop, all records and books. To me, books on euro cars are a must.
Will take your advice and look. Thank you all very much.
Will take your advice and look. Thank you all very much.
It would be preferable to buy one that is not running, and put in a tophatted engine block or do an LS swap. Of course, this changes the cost a ton, but you get a much more reliable truck.
of course, you may find one that already has a Turner or other tophatted engine in it.
Immediately install an obdII tool that will show you temps, and take care of your cooling system as if it were your life.
If an engine rebuild is within your skill set then an original engine would be an acceptable risk as you’d avoid labor of an engine swap etc.
I have an SE7, and while I find the jump seats sort of in the way for golf clubs etc. that model comes with a really nice A/C system for the rear.Maybe they all do I don’t know, but it is nice to have.
Look at the ABS wires and see if the original connectors are being used, or if they have bypassed them and soldered into the wire near the Computer. The original connector is preferable, as changing the pins in the connector is next to impossible, and sensors are plentiful and cheap that amintain the original plug.
Look at the ABS wires and see if the original connectors are being used, or if they have bypassed them and soldered into the wire near the Computer. The original connector is preferable, as changing the pins in the connector is next to impossible, and sensors are plentiful and cheap that amintain the original plug.