The more info the better. Thanks for posting this.

 

I agree not having a diff-lock on early D2s was a mistake, but I'm not as down on the electronic traction control as some are.

With my '99, I had the center diff lock, I just needed the linkage (added a D1 linkage this winter, but if I had to do it again, I'd spend the $$ and go Ashcroft).

With the center Diff-lock AND traction control, the Disco 2 is pretty much like a typical 4wd vehicle with front and rear limited slips. This is actually quite advantageous in off-road situations and much better than open-diffs.

While I haven't done it myself (no $$, but it's my next step), I've read that many run the True-Tracs front and rear WITH traction control and they get 90% of the performance of front and rear lockers without the risk of breaking axles and requiring expensive HD-axle conversions.

I've talked extensively with the folks at Great Basin Rovers and unless you are building a super-tough extreme rock-crawler, the Disco 2 with true-tracs, CDL, and traction control is quite a formidable machine and will do many trails down in Moab on stock axles. If you want a tad more performance, another option is true-tracs up front, Detroit lockers with HD axles in the rear, CDL, and Traction Control "on".

There is a way in the D2 to turn-off traction control (turn the vehicle on with the CDL engaged), but many who run this way say it's better to keep it on.

 

Hope this does not appear as a hijack, but the question seems relevant.
I have searched on this forum and found this to be the closest thread without starting a new one.
Being inexperienced off-road, I have tried to do my research on how not to get in trouble and keep the truck rolling on 4 wheels. I watched a very good youtube video ( )
It is mostly instruction on how to drive a Discovery I or II and a Defender offroad (basics only). Near the end, the instructor is turning on and off the CDL. He talks about it constantly.
Is this really necessary? If so why?
Is there damage that might result from leaving it on while offroad?
Thanks for the advice.

 

My 2000 user manual instructs to
- have the automatic transmission in 'park' and
- the transfer gearbox in 'neutral' ,
- ignition key in 'I' to unlock the steering
in order to 'recovery' tow the Disco (being pulled)

 

How hard should it be to put it in Low?

I have never done it, and inclined to think the previous owner has not either. I have tried, putting maybe 25lbs of force on it.

Is my linkage rusted together or am I doing something wrong?
2003.

 

Watch the video above, he addresses your issue, kind of....

 

Should be pretty easy. Mine wouldn't go in when I was sitting still, but went in easily if I let the car roll.

 

Neutral with a little bit or roll front or back. If it still doesnt go in the linkage could be frozen. Common on trucks that have not exersised the lever

 

There should be no issue with leaving the CDL on all the time off-road, unless you are in 4wheel Hi and going faster than 30~45mph, and especially on pavement.


Center-locked 4wd systems are pretty much the standard on traditional SUVs, it's only the luxury models, such as Land Rover, that has the center-diff as "selectable."


I have heard reports from other users that leaving the CDL on (especially with traction control off: IE the 3-amigos light lit) can cause unwanted stress on our weak spider gears potentially leading to a failure.


Once you have the CDL kit install it is very, very, easy to turn it on and off. I was in Moab in May and just clicked it on for difficult climbs and clicked it off when I was done. This also allows the Traction Control to do its thing (with CDL 'on' the Traciton Control does not work as hard), which seems to be really important in keeping the ABS system from throwing 3-Amigo's lights.

The combination of CDL-with-traction control performed so well that I'm seriously reconsidering lockers or True-Tracs, and I grew up with ARBs on the rocks.

 

Thanks for the response, I guess every truck is setup is different (after you start the mods) so the real answer is probably " It depends...."


My traction control does not appear to work, probably because the Rover transmission is laying in a pile of parts, or some other problem I haven't got around to working on.
The spider gear would be a non-issue for the rear since I have an Ashcroft auto-locker. Maybe an issue for the front?
I have a home made electric motor setup to engage the CDL. It's very easy to do but also easy to forget to turn on. I would rather air down, put the truck in LOW range, turn on the CDL and hit the trail. The trails I will run are set up for and built by Rock Crawlers, I can go all day and never get out of 1st gear in low range.
I agree that in a high traction situation, you should disengage the CDL..... Like those mountains made out of rock in Moab, looks like steep paved roads with no guardrails.