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3 Amigo help

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Old 03-11-2014, 07:14 PM
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I know I need to get a reader. I think I will spring for the Autel 619 instead of the ABS Amigo. Actually, the 619 is cheaper and does much more. I also order the valve replace kit because regardless of the code, the valves need to be rebuilt. I heated them slightly with the wife's hair dryer the other day to try to expand the rubber. You could see where the o-ring was breaking down and the rubber was starting to smear down the shaft of the valve.
 
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:02 AM
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Yeah, sorry guys... I should explain.
Reading codes to help understand and fix the real issues is always the right move. I have heard of people using OBD plugins to instantly clear amigo codes the moment they show up in an effort to overcome the 3 amigo problem. This is the "patch" I was referring to.
 
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:10 AM
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yeah, gotcha. that is more of a blind fold. they usually pop right back up.

on topic anyone ever have abs light (not sporadic, but on constant) just go away and not return, by itself?
I did, recently. Thinking it may have just been some grease on rotor or something stupid. (recently had all the axles out) had light for a few days...made time to fix it.........and it was gone, before I could even plug in amigo. grease theory sound right?
 
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by DiscoJ
I would guess that you performed the ground bypass correctly since it's not difficult to do (solder ALL wire cnnections, insure good ground tie, etc.) However, since you mentioned broken clips and brake fluid flooding your shuttle valves switches. Your shuttle valves are clearly not sealing correctly which leads me to believe that they may not be rating correctly either. Even though bleeding the system is a pain, I would dismantle the modulator completely and ensure you're shuttle valves are not toast.
IMO, stay away from the ABS AMIGO device... it's a patch, not a fix.

Ok, got the codes read. Here is the long but distinguished list:

1. Engine speed input signal intermittent or missing
2. Shuttle valve switch failure
3. ECU ground or reference ground fault
4. Pump relay open circuit
5. RR outlet valve
6. Short to internal supply
7. Shuttle valve switch electrical failure.

My buddy who read the codes says it looks mostly like a ground issue. It looks to me like also need to replace relay. As far as the shuttle valve is concerned, I did the bypass (Option B). I tested it prior to installation with the multimeter because I thought it might be fried too. I am getting 3.02, 2.02, an 1.02 ohms, so it appears to me to be good. What the hell is going on here. Could it also be the ECU?

When I checked out the nut behind the head light, it was nearly falling off of the body, it fact I did break it off. I just relocated the ground to nut beside it. What am I missing here guys?

Thanks
 
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