I did option B, 3 amigos still showing... I don't have an OBD reader that can clear codes... Are there any other ways to test that this fixed the issue




Meanwhile, found this exhaust(?) hose disconnected... anyone able to point me in the right direction?

It connects here, driver's side near the SVC unit:

 

You need a code reader to clear the ABS codes. They won't clear on their own, so you won't know if your repair has been successful. Any auto parts store should be able to lend you one.

 

The disconnected piping looks like either vacuum, or washer fluid based on location, and not exhaust. Do you have SAI? Are all your squirters working correctly?

Also, the main connector to the ABS pump looks like it is not fully seated into the connector in your third pic.

 

Mollusc - Will disconnecting the battery clear the ABS codes? I don't recall for certain, although disconnecting the battery will clear engine management codes.

If not, mollusc is correct that you should be able to get the ABS codes cleared at any auto parts store. Please note, however, that while the TC and HDC lights will clear immediately, the ABS light will remain on until the truck is driven a few yards an at a speed I don't recall. Don't panic; the SLABS won't turn off the ABS light until it "sees" the system working with all four wheel speed sensors.

The small tubing with the broken fitting is for the windshield washer system. The broken stub shown in the end of the hose is the nipple from the washer jet on the driver's side (LHD trucks). That's the only location with the T fitting. Replacement washer jets can be expensive. The best pricing I found was from Rimmer Bros. The pic shows the box with the part number, and both a new washer jet and a broken one from my truck. Never mind that if you search online for this part number descriptions will say it's for a Freelander/LR2. It fits a DII just fine. The DII part number is DNJ500090. Online prices for that part number are $28-$40 vs. < $10 for LR048709.

 

Dumb question, but how would I know if I have SAI? No clue on squirters working... She's been sitting awhile, car was "gifted" to me and is the gift that keeps on giving! Ha!

I was wondering that too! I tried pulling it out and pushing back in, but couldn't get it any further in...

 

I found a friend with one... will report back shortly.... thx!

 

Bro, thank you these pics are 100. Getting online and ordering right now. Hell yes! THX!!!

 

Doing just the Option B may not fully resolve your issue. I did not read in your post that you replaced the O rings in the shuttle valves. How many miles do you have on your Disco? I attached the SVS replacement Post. You will need to contact falcon works. https://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales...roducts_id=247

 

SLABS ECU faults will remain in the unit until cleared by a Scantool which can read LR ABS fault codes.

 

I should have asked this earlier, but did you get the ABS codes read before doing Option B? If not, the problem may have not been 114:Shuttle Valve Switch Electrical Failure. It may have been a problem in a wheel speed sensor circuit, which is common.

But at this point that's not very relevant. Just go to an auto parts store and get the ABS codes read (and cleared).

p.s. The shuttle valve O-rings may not need to be replaced. Was there any evidence of brake fluid on the shuttle valve switch assembly when you removed it? And, did you test the shuttle valve switches with an ohm meter when you had them out of the modulator?