60k service/Sea Foam Question
#1
12-29-2008 | 10:15 PM
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Winching
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 558
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City
60k service/Sea Foam Question
Ok, I am starting to acquire the items listed by Mike in my "2nd Post" Thread.. in order to do the 60k maintenence even though my vehicle only has 46k on it.. It is after all 15 years old and the fluids should be changed.. The Brake Fluid for example is DARK..
After spending $160 on fluids and not even making it halfway through the list, I was looking at the Synthetic motor oil and the Seafoam and a Question came to mind.....
Checking my oil I see that it is a Beautiful Amber color.. The tag in the window says the next oil change is due at 48k (2k away)
Is there a reason I have to follow this Specific Order...
ORIGINAL: tomfraser
Just gotta give discomike credit as it is his list... and these are his instructions below
OK, here is my way of cleaning an engine, especially if it hasn't been done in awhile.
Buy one can of any good engine flush, 3 cans of SeaFoam and a couple feet of vaccum line.
Flush the engine oil first, use the flush, let it idle for 10 or 20 minutes, change the oil and filter.
Put one can of SaeFoam in the gas, one in the crank case and use the last can as an induction cleaner to clean the valves.
To do the induction system, find a good vaccum scourse on the manifold or throttle body. Using a pair of plyers as a metering system, put your vaccum hose in the SeaFoam can, hook the other end on to the engine, start the engine and restrick the flow so it take 2 or 3 minutes to empty the can into the engine. Turn off the engine for 30 minutes or more, then be prepaired to go drive it hard, naybe on the highway or some place where you can keep kicking the throttle for some high RPM's Yhe one big warn is that your truck will smoke like hell so be prepared, cause it will happen for up to 20 minutes.
Now after flushing the engine and then adding the SeaFoam, your new oil can get real dirty again real soon so keep an eye on it and change it again, maybe 1000 miles down the road.
Now your truck will show a big difference when you nail it.
Just gotta give discomike credit as it is his list... and these are his instructions below
OK, here is my way of cleaning an engine, especially if it hasn't been done in awhile.
Buy one can of any good engine flush, 3 cans of SeaFoam and a couple feet of vaccum line.
Flush the engine oil first, use the flush, let it idle for 10 or 20 minutes, change the oil and filter.
Put one can of SaeFoam in the gas, one in the crank case and use the last can as an induction cleaner to clean the valves.
To do the induction system, find a good vaccum scourse on the manifold or throttle body. Using a pair of plyers as a metering system, put your vaccum hose in the SeaFoam can, hook the other end on to the engine, start the engine and restrick the flow so it take 2 or 3 minutes to empty the can into the engine. Turn off the engine for 30 minutes or more, then be prepaired to go drive it hard, naybe on the highway or some place where you can keep kicking the throttle for some high RPM's Yhe one big warn is that your truck will smoke like hell so be prepared, cause it will happen for up to 20 minutes.
Now after flushing the engine and then adding the SeaFoam, your new oil can get real dirty again real soon so keep an eye on it and change it again, maybe 1000 miles down the road.
Now your truck will show a big difference when you nail it.
Anyhow, does the above seem ok??
#2
12-29-2008 | 11:55 PM
RE: 60k service/Sea Foam Question
Dont bother with the engine flush, the full synthetic will clean the engine.
Do the induction cleaning.
If you do do a engine flush do the ATF flush, put in cheap dino oil and cheap filter, then change it in 500 miles, switch to your full syn and go.
But with your mileage I wouldnt worry about it.
The brake fluid is supposed to be flushed every two years or 24,000 miles, whichever is sooner.
You dont need to do everything at once, just do things as you have the money.
I wont spend $12 on a oil filter, but I do use Mobil 1.
Dont waste the Seafoam in the crankcase, in the gas tank is good.
Make sure that you change the fuel filter, I highly recommend buying the fuel filter kit from www,atlanticbritish.com for the fit\rst time you change it, then just buy the filter at AutoZone and change it once a year after that making sure that you coat the threads with antisieze.
The first time you change it it will take you 3 hours, the second time 15 min.
Do the induction cleaning.
If you do do a engine flush do the ATF flush, put in cheap dino oil and cheap filter, then change it in 500 miles, switch to your full syn and go.
But with your mileage I wouldnt worry about it.
The brake fluid is supposed to be flushed every two years or 24,000 miles, whichever is sooner.
You dont need to do everything at once, just do things as you have the money.
I wont spend $12 on a oil filter, but I do use Mobil 1.
Dont waste the Seafoam in the crankcase, in the gas tank is good.
Make sure that you change the fuel filter, I highly recommend buying the fuel filter kit from www,atlanticbritish.com for the fit\rst time you change it, then just buy the filter at AutoZone and change it once a year after that making sure that you coat the threads with antisieze.
The first time you change it it will take you 3 hours, the second time 15 min.
#3
12-30-2008 | 08:13 AM
Thread Starter
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Winching
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 558
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City
#4
12-30-2008 | 09:20 AM
RE: 60k service/Sea Foam Question
Wait, wait wait...it does not leak? Dude, you have GOT to do something abouit that.
Actually the leaks are preset at the factory, 50,000 miles and the leak fitting will start to weep, if it was set up correctly you will have what will look like a templet of the drivetrain in the parking spot where you park after 2 hours of sitting.
Rover had some quality control issues from time to time so your leak fitting may not start to leak until after 50,000 miles. If this happens dont worry ablout it unless you go beyond 60,000, then it is a serious problem and will need to be corrected.
Enjoy the truck man! You found a gem.
Actually the leaks are preset at the factory, 50,000 miles and the leak fitting will start to weep, if it was set up correctly you will have what will look like a templet of the drivetrain in the parking spot where you park after 2 hours of sitting.
Rover had some quality control issues from time to time so your leak fitting may not start to leak until after 50,000 miles. If this happens dont worry ablout it unless you go beyond 60,000, then it is a serious problem and will need to be corrected.
Enjoy the truck man! You found a gem.
#5
12-31-2008 | 01:49 PM
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 106
From: Denver, Colorado
RE: 60k service/Sea Foam Question
Do the induction cleaning and the ATF flush, that engine has been sitting way to long and as Spike mentioned throw cheap oil back in after the flush drive it till the oil starts to darker and before changing to the synthetic oil, throw in one of the 1 quart engine flushes just to get the last of the crap out of the engine.
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