I have a 97 disco and have rotor shudder under heavy breaking. I have removed and replaced the rear rotors. I now notice that the manual is stating that the adjusting nut needs to be backed out 90 to allow hub end float. I tightened the nut using a flat head screwdriver tapping it with a hammer, but did not back the nut out. Is it important that the nut is backed out, and if so how do I measure the end float as I do not have a guage? I plan on doing the front also and would like to have some feedback.

 

Which bolt and nut? Are you talking about the big hub nuts?

 

Yes, the big hub nuts. I secured the closest nut with a hammer and flat head screwdriver until the bolt would not move further. I then put the lock washer back in and did the same for the second bolt. I did not have a big enough of a socket to fit the nut, so this was the only option. The one on Atlantic British appears to not work with a torque wrench, so I would have to find another 2 1/16 socket with a 1/2 drive somewhere if this is a major issue.

 

They should be backed off just like any other wheel bearing. You will burn up your bearings if they don't have a little play. I tightened mine all the way down while spinning the wheel and backed off a quarter turn.

 

they make adapters to go from 3/4" drive to 1/2", vice-versa or any combo really. Check out harbor freight, best money I ever spent was on socket adapters.

 

Don't leave them to loose. Whenever the bearings are slightly loose they can make the abs sensor move just slightly and you'll get air gap faults. I've always kept the one's I did on the tight side including all my trucks and never had any isues. Tapered bearings are supposed to have some preload. For example when you do a differential the side bearings are preloaded before tightening the caps. The pinion is preloaded and checked by rotating and checking drag. Swivel ball preload Etc. Just don't make them crazy tight and you will be ok.

 

They are probably ok, but I may double check once I get my 2 1/16 jeep hub socket(around 13 shipped....this is 1/2 DRIVE so I can use my torque wrench). I just used a flat head screwdriver angled into side of the bolt and hammered. Could not have been too much torque, but I did hit it till the bolt would no longer spin. I will be sure to spin the rotor also to make sure it is on there flush. I am still getting some brake pedal pulsation, but this may be from the front rotors as they have not been worked on yet.

 

I'm confused. How is using a hammer and a screwdriver more accurate than using the socket without a torque wrench?
The D1 hub bearings are supposed to have 0,010mm end float, which is sorta hard to achieve by feel without practice. It's pretty much the smallest about of end float you can detect by trying to push/pull the hub in and out.

 

Without a doubt the spec is 010mm but I can say from seeing it before. Your just better off with no play (not cranked down). I've seen so many ABS air gap faults caused by a little play in the wheel bearings. You can always do it by the book and if you get any codes down the road just snug em up a bit. I've only seen bearings get looser not tighter.