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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 10:55 AM
  #21  
Dan7's Avatar
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Recommend an electric fan in hotter climates. Ensures good CFM flow even while idling/rock crawling.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 10:54 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Dan7
Recommend an electric fan in hotter climates. Ensures good CFM flow even while idling/rock crawling.
Anywhere specifically? I'm mechanically inclined so I'm open to all ideas.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 07:34 PM
  #23  
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Good news fellas. I installed my new 180 tstat and bled the cooling system. After letting it idle, the temp was at 194 and dropped to 188 with the heater on! The temps outside were almost duplicate to what they were that day. I didn't run it on the freeway but I'm sure when I do it will run cooler. This helps considering temps here can get pretty high. Hope this post helps someone with any doubts. Get the 180 and see results. Mine 208-210 avg to 188-194. Big difference.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 09:50 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Richard.rover
Anywhere specifically? I'm mechanically inclined so I'm open to all ideas.
Sorry, just saw this. Not sure what you mean by "Anywhere specifically?" Are you asking what climates I'd recommend one? ALL. If you're in AK, you'd benefit by not powering the fan all the time when you don't need it like a viscus clutch would. If you're in AZ, you ensure high flow all the time, even at idle unlike a viscus clutch. Downside is you need a temp controlled unit to really get the most advantage and those run around $300 for the one's with enough CFMs to do the job right (3K or greater). Installation is a breeze. Mine fits inside the factory upper fan shroud so I didn't need to modify anything to hold the coolant lines. Guaranteed cooling, more hp and better MPGs!

Glad to hear your temps are holding steady in the green!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 11:44 AM
  #25  
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dan, link to your fan? I am going to hook one up. trying to figure out how to get rid of the water pump, first.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 03:22 PM
  #26  
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FLEXALITE180 Mustang Flex-A-Lite Black Magic Extreme Electric Fan Kit 3300 CFM Universal | CJ Pony Parts

I found it for $200, but that was after shopping around for a month.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 07:33 PM
  #27  
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We had our first warn day here in North Florida.
In the 80's and I ran any where from 194 to 206 in traffic. Had a "spike" of 208 in mild traffic but never above that.

Here in Jax I really don't drive in grid locked traffic for hours at a time thankfully.

I don't have the 180 Thermostat installed but I have had my entire cooling system gone over.

I would like to change the Rad tho.

That's on my to do list before summer.
 

Last edited by ems12; Mar 14, 2014 at 07:36 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 02:15 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Dan7
Sorry, just saw this. Not sure what you mean by "Anywhere specifically?" Are you asking what climates I'd recommend one? ALL. If you're in AK, you'd benefit by not powering the fan all the time when you don't need it like a viscus clutch would. If you're in AZ, you ensure high flow all the time, even at idle unlike a viscus clutch. Downside is you need a temp controlled unit to really get the most advantage and those run around $300 for the one's with enough CFMs to do the job right (3K or greater). Installation is a breeze. Mine fits inside the factory upper fan shroud so I didn't need to modify anything to hold the coolant lines. Guaranteed cooling, more hp and better MPGs!

Glad to hear your temps are holding steady in the green!
Just thought there was a specific vendor to buy from. If you have pics that is also good.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 01:24 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Dan7
I understood that 221 was just a spike...perhaps I should have said reaching 221F is not normal? that said, you need to find out what aspect of the cooling system isn't working properly, and you haven't ruled out air in the system until you do a pressure test. After that, install a 180F thermostat b/c even if the t-stat isn't the issue, this needs to be done anyway. There's other posts on how to check and see if your radiator is clogged by Savanahbuzz...something about taking temp readings at the top and bottom of the radiator, ensuring >10F difference. Checking the fan clutch is fairly easy if you have a basis for comparison. All these things are good preventative maintenance anyway, so you're not out the time/$ if it doesn't fix the issue.
just to put things in perspective for some of you all: I’ve got a 1999 D2. New AB long block, new radiator, new viscous fan, new reservoir, 180 degree thermostat. 85 degrees out now, running AC at 66. Engine remains 197-199 tooling around town. Sitting in this parking lot, never goes over 203. Highway a nice 188. Ultra gauge readings.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 01:44 PM
  #30  
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Thanks for that last post, excellent benchmark. BTW, I think you would find a bypass thermostat system would run at least 10 degrees cooler, if you were so inclined to experiment.
 
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