Terry Martin is my hero.

 

I knew I was dealing with people who learned everthing they know from low rate, late night TV shows. Thanks for admiting that one ajmille, why dont you pick up a wrench, put down the popcorn, and go bust a few knuckles. Then give people some advice based on real world experience, not tv shows you watched. But thanks for your two cents anyways.

Excluding Spike555 in all that, thank you for your input man. You really did tell me exactly what I needed to know. And yes, I'm pretty sure I just got water where it doesnt belong. Though the sounds from the firewall area are gone now, and everything other than the O2 sensor has returned to normal. BTW I used to live in Wisc so I know exactly what your talking about with everything turning white. Thats another reason I didn't worry to much about a little salt.

I originally asked a question pertaining to the over designed, overly intricate electrical system's on a rover. And was then degraded, talked down to, and TOLD to sell my truck, because I had ABUSED it. You know what Savannah, KISS MY FAT WHITE A*S. I really dont give two sh*ts about the Zodiak you bought at a gov auction, or the SEAL teams that use them. You are nothing but a low life sh*t talking bum who once again.... Should pick up a wrench and go bust some knuckles before giving advice. And btw, two summers of student drivers will kill anything. So where you are or what you read about in your local paper (while waiting in the lobby for a tech to fix your truck I'm sure), is NOTHING SPECIAL. Get over your self man.

Oh and just a tip I once got from an old timer on how to deal with carbon build up in the combustion chambers. Pull a vac line from the intake, submerge it in a bucket of WATER, and watch the steam and carbon come out your exaust pipe. Yes I have done this on old V8's, and yes it does work. Amazing too, prolly done it on 2 dozen engines and never had one crack a block. (Though I also would probably not recomend trying this on a Rover)

Oh and Waterfowl, You freakin rock man.....

 

I refuse to enter a battle of wits with an unarmed opponent.

 

Hahaha... Theres only one way to resolve a "battle of wits..."

Memorable Movie Death #3: Vizzini From Princess Bride - YouTube

 

A trick I learned while growing up on the farm was to get the engine nice and warm, with it running remove the air filter from the carb and using a old Windex bottle filled with water and set to "stream" and spray it into the carb, let the engine stumble, once the idle returns to normal repeat, do this until the bottle was empty.
No more carbon build up, we did this everytime the car/truck/whatever started to spark knock while under load, which meant the compression ratio had been raised from excessive carbon build up on the pistons.
Worked each and everytime.
It is not needed on a fuel injected engine as long as the proper fuel grade is used, a quality fuel is used and the engine is keep well tuned.

And yes, the DII is WAY overly complicated, the cooling system, the electrics...thats one of the many reasons I own a DI and not a DII.

 

I apologize to Mr. Martin.

I was not representing the spirit of this forum, and certainly did not add anything to the knowledge base we all contribute to.

In reality, Mr. Martin and I think alike on a number of issues.

Marine grade wire is too expensive, and is unlikely to be found in any production vehicle. Various techniques can be used to protect connectors and circuit boards in vehicles planning for this sort of use. Salt water does place additional demands on prep and care of a vehicle, just like expedition use. Rover and others simply don't build things to work like an early jet ski, where you could flood the engine, turn a valve, pump out, and go back to impressing the beach crowd.

College students are indeed tough on any machinery, they are high school students with six months' experience and need to be closely supervised.

I was incorrect when I used the term "abuse", I was not there, it may have been unavoidable. A three foot deep hole full of water looks just like a 10 inch deep one. I have a friend who drove a brand new Subaru into a puddle on the first weekend in the woods, it was 12 feet deep. Vehicle was totaled, be bought salvage title for $1200, washed it out, and put over 150K on it.

If members are planning on beach operations, allow time and effort for wash down afterwards. If you do this a lot, consider building your own wash rack from plastic pipe and irrigation parts from home improvement store, drive over it, stay parked, and wash for a while. Any runoff will kill most decorative plants, so do this near gravel, etc.

The main difference between wading in the creek and frolic at the beach is creek water leaves mud, and salt water leaves stuff that can eat up connectors and change their values. This makes ECU believe engine conditions are different, and wierd things can occur, with or without codes. And for the coastal guys who don't go to the beach, but hit the marsh mud, it has salt in it as well, will pack under wheel wells, and everything on the underside. Mud with salt, trapped against your posh pampered sheet metal.

Again, it was incorrect for me to make any assumptions about Mr. Martin. While none of us here knows it all, no one knows more than all of us, and Mr. Martin's opinions should be welcome in the future, if he will remain with our group. We are here to enjoy each others company, moan about dealerships, learn from the pros who donate their time in their quest for being a lifelong learner, and find out new things about Rovers.

 

Wow Savanahh, You gave me a loss for words here. Thank you.

And I also should apologize for the overly harsh way I went about things, I ended up making assumption's myself. Dont exactly have a leg to stand on if I do what I'm argueing against now do I.

Btw thanks for the tip on the wash down rack, I never thought of that. Gonna have to build one if I want to play anywhere near the coast.

So on another tip from you, I went out and bought an OBD2 reader, still had my Red Bull though

Codes I pulled are po175, po172, po134, po154

What I'm courious about though is, if the salt may have killed the sensors, why only the front ones? Any input?

 

Perhaps consider this:

1. Front sensor probably hotter than rear, as they are closer to engine. Cold water shock may have got the thermal elements. However, this seems like it would be a problem for folks in Colorado wading in streams, etc.

2. Sesnors are heated, and have a shield wire connection. The shield is not tied to ECM ground, and is supervised for a short to that:

from Bosch manual:


to the ECM ground.


heated for a certain time.

Analogue to Digital Converter (ADC) voltages exceeding the maximum threshold VMAX are caused by a short circuit to battery positive.

Attached are pages for causes of your codes. Believe that the first two are simply the effect of the last ones and will clear once things return to normal.

0134 and 0154 are circuit continuity, and you will notice the vltages measured are very small. It could be connector may clean up a little more, if you are lucky. Page attached.

 

Well, now that you two have kissed and made up, time to throw a monkey wrench in your whole diagnositic flow chart.

#1 . Savannah, the rear o2 sensor is always hotter. Temperature going thru the catalytic convertor is susposed to increase. therefore, your rear O2 sensorwill always be hotter.

#2. Just because you have a front O2 sensor codes does not mean you have an O2 sensor issue. Running issues can also throw O2 sensor codes. Dirty air filters, failing maf sensor, ****ty spark plugs, ****ty ignition wires, failing coils, exhaust leaks will all throw O2 sensor codes.

And also, as savannah said, check your connectors.

 

All true. But front is still too hot for me to grab (again).

Air filter could be wet from water slurped in, vehicle is new to owner, most need wires and plugs, but no codes before this.

Plugs from O2s are located at rear of block for fronts, and on or beside transfer case for rears, not excatly out of the way for water. Hopefully a good clean up of connectors can avoid new sensors. The voltages supervised are very small, so it does not take much to put them out of specification. The sensors actually hook straight to ECU, except for power.

See attached photos. Seems like the cheap place to start.

BTW - lucky not in D1 - ECM is inside engine compartment and can be drowned if not weather proofed. MAF sensor (hot wire style) does not like cold water. New one is around $1400 at Rock Auto, I'm sure there are better prices somewhere. Just pointing out the things to consider for others.