99 discovery heat and air not working
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
the thing is even if the resistor was bad i would still have the high fan. instead a have no blower. all my fan levels have 11.5 11.5 11.9 and the blower still wont run. i hook it up direct and the blower takes off.
when you move the blower speeds you can hear the relays. what a pain
when you move the blower speeds you can hear the relays. what a pain
TReK
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,306
Likes: 3
From: Woodstock, GA
the thing is even if the resistor was bad i would still have the high fan. instead a have no blower. all my fan levels have 11.5 11.5 11.9 and the blower still wont run. i hook it up direct and the blower takes off. when you move the blower speeds you can hear the relays. what a pain
when you move the blower speeds you can hear the relays. what a pain
Mudding
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 214
Likes: 19
From: Arizona
Try this before you buy a new blower!!
This is a common problem with Disco's check out these threads they fixed my problem and saved me $$$.
check out my blower fix thread below.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22524
It is usually a faulty interior fuse block, specifically at the blower fuse. Between the wire harness connector on the back and the fuse on the front, there is a break in the power supply through the block. You can replace the fuse block, or bypass the block altogether, like I did, and run a independent fused wire to the blower.
The resistor pack can go bad, however, if the max speed fan setting doesn't work, then it is not the resistor pack. Max fan speed bypasses the resistor pack. There is a different rated resistor for each slower fan speed.
Note: Both of my fuseblocks (interior and under the hood) were dead for the blower circuit, and I bypassed both. See the attached images in the linked thread.
The picture is showing the back of the interior fuseblock. The drawing is of the engine bay fuseblock near the battery.
As for the interior fuseblock, check fuse 7 for power with a test light (with A/C on).
If you have power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0584 (see photo), locate the brown with red wire. From the location of that wire in the connector determine which pin on the fuseblock that wire attaches to. Check that pin for power from fuse 7. If you don't have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power from fuse 7 to the rear connector). Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did (see below). If you have power on this pin, then either the voltage is less than the blower needs to run or there is a loose connection/cut wire.
If no power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0581 (see photo), locate the brown with pink wire, test this wire through the connector with the test light (with A/C on). If you have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power to fuse 7 from the rear connector power supply).
Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did.The wires in the connector are locked in with a thin white plastic plug. Pull this plug out with needlenose pliers, take a small flat blade screwdriver and dig/pry the brown with pink wire out. It will already have a spade bit receptor attached.
Do the same for connector 0584, for the the brown with red wire (This wire is direct to the blower). Buy a 30 amp inline fuse, attach spade bit tips to both ends of the 30 amp inline fuse and plug into the 2 wires you dug out. The blower should work now.
If you don't have power at the brown with pink wire (connector 0581), then you need to check the engine bay fuseblock (see drawing in linked thread provided earlier). Power starts at fuselink 4 and exits the fuseblock at the connector shown through the said brown with pink wire. __________________
check out my blower fix thread below.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22524
It is usually a faulty interior fuse block, specifically at the blower fuse. Between the wire harness connector on the back and the fuse on the front, there is a break in the power supply through the block. You can replace the fuse block, or bypass the block altogether, like I did, and run a independent fused wire to the blower.
The resistor pack can go bad, however, if the max speed fan setting doesn't work, then it is not the resistor pack. Max fan speed bypasses the resistor pack. There is a different rated resistor for each slower fan speed.
Note: Both of my fuseblocks (interior and under the hood) were dead for the blower circuit, and I bypassed both. See the attached images in the linked thread.
The picture is showing the back of the interior fuseblock. The drawing is of the engine bay fuseblock near the battery.
As for the interior fuseblock, check fuse 7 for power with a test light (with A/C on).
If you have power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0584 (see photo), locate the brown with red wire. From the location of that wire in the connector determine which pin on the fuseblock that wire attaches to. Check that pin for power from fuse 7. If you don't have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power from fuse 7 to the rear connector). Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did (see below). If you have power on this pin, then either the voltage is less than the blower needs to run or there is a loose connection/cut wire.
If no power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0581 (see photo), locate the brown with pink wire, test this wire through the connector with the test light (with A/C on). If you have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power to fuse 7 from the rear connector power supply).
Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did.The wires in the connector are locked in with a thin white plastic plug. Pull this plug out with needlenose pliers, take a small flat blade screwdriver and dig/pry the brown with pink wire out. It will already have a spade bit receptor attached.
Do the same for connector 0584, for the the brown with red wire (This wire is direct to the blower). Buy a 30 amp inline fuse, attach spade bit tips to both ends of the 30 amp inline fuse and plug into the 2 wires you dug out. The blower should work now.
If you don't have power at the brown with pink wire (connector 0581), then you need to check the engine bay fuseblock (see drawing in linked thread provided earlier). Power starts at fuselink 4 and exits the fuseblock at the connector shown through the said brown with pink wire. __________________
Mudding
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 214
Likes: 19
From: Arizona
Rob,
Most of the time the problem is in the main fuse box under the hood, the troubleshooting in the fuse box under the steering wheel is pretty much to see if you have power or not to that fuse to see if the fuse under the hood is relaying.
Most of the time the problem is in the main fuse box under the hood, the troubleshooting in the fuse box under the steering wheel is pretty much to see if you have power or not to that fuse to see if the fuse under the hood is relaying.
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
how do i check the fuse box under the hood. the link has 12 volts on my meter and so does the cabin fuse. fan speeds 11.5v 11.5v 11.5v and 11.90 volts at high fan and it still wont run? even when i put a charger on batters puts it at 12.10v it still wont spin?
it still wont spin?
8th Gear
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Re: 99 discovery heat and air not working
i just recently bought a 99 disc2. i am in the middle of sorting it out. i cant get the heat or air to work and the fan doesnt come on either. Its not the fuses they look fine. i checked out the fan with a direct jump and it worked but its wont come on inside the car. ok gurus please help me out. i never had a car where both heat and air didnt work
