I am almost sure that they are dealer installed add-ons. If both don't work it could be a lose connection, blown fuse, or bad switch. Not to derail your thread but how do you like your Saab.

 

LOL... I actually just sold it to a friend. I loved the Saab though. Much like a Rover, you need to be very careful with what you buy and be OK with a wrench.
I bought it as an extra car to have fun with and did just that. It was a one owner with 59K on it, and just needed a bit of TLC which I gave it. Overall, it was a blast. It was quick, but got me 28MPH when I took it on highway road trips for work. It handled great, felt SOLID, was comfy and had everything you could want. Only downside it was an auto, and especially with a turbo (lag) I want a 3rd pedal.
In general though, I would only buy a Euro drop top (that is made as such, not a sedan chopped). I have two little kids who like to ride in it, and I would not feel safe with them in something else.

 

I've seen a kit for those before...i believe it was from some Rover site in Salt Lake City. When you tried to turn them on, did you have the regular headlights on and the vehicle running? I'm pretty sure both have to be on in order for them to work.

In response to it being wet right above the posts, mine gets wet all the damn time. Only on the passenger side though. We've had some hefty storms up here in Michigan and my whole door was wet this morning. UGH. I tore out my headliner last month, and it's not the roof rails, it's the actual windshield in mine. I've had it re-sealed EIGHT....that's right EIGHT times from THREE different companies and they can't figure it out. However, mine has that same little gap on the passenger side, but it seems to me that the windshield should be sealed regardless if there's a little gap on the outside....am i right?

 

I am about ready to install those Running Lamps that are on the front of your soon to be gold Discovery. After reading the IKEA instructions. They only work when the high beams are on. So try that first. Or that is how they are wired per the Range Rover instructions.

The Roof leaks.
I added 2004 roof rails to my 2003. Because we all know they look cooler and more manly. I also tried to fix my driver A-Pillar roof leak. I took down the head liner. caulked all in the corner...filled it up with auto marine grade silicone. Caulked outside. took off the plastic A-pillar cover. Wow that is super bitch to get back on. Caulked that section of corner roof rail you have pictured. Now no leaks!!! But I got a new leak on the passenger side when it rained hard. I ended up silconing the passenger front roof rail rubber gasket both top and on the roof. Wa La no more leaks. So Bama boy try that as your last straw.

 

What's this? I didn't know there was a difference (and Google didn't help). You're talking about the would-be luggage rack right?

 

Thanks bud. Will do

 

Good stuff as always! If I could come together on a price I think I will move ahead with the purchase.

 

The backwards facing "fog" light button is for he rear mounted, are you ready...fog lights.
Turn on the headlights and press that button then go behind the truck, you will see 2 bright red lights in the rear bumper, those are so you dont get slammed i the rear during extreme weather.

As for the off road lights, there will be a separate switch for those and once again your headlights must be on for them to work but they will not work with the high beams on.

 

Nope, checked out the rear fogs and they were good. That switch is under the front fog switch. The switch (I think) for the front ones was on the console to the right, all the way on the bottom. Had a picture of a light with "2" on it, so figured it had to be the aux front ones. Didn't work with or without highs though.