I get sporadic three amgio faults, they will go on for a few minutes then shut themselves off. No real correlation to what causes them, maybe if I stop short it is slightly more likely to happen but no where near consistently.

I checked the right, rear speed sensor, it looks to be in good condition, although I know the fault can be internal. The pump failures are what have me confused. My plan is to replace the RR hub, any chance that would fix the shuttle valve faults? I have done the option b, hardwire of the shuttle valve.


Current Faults---->
Active Faults:
None
Logged Faults:
020:No batt supply voltage
047:Rear Right sensor output low
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
<-END Faults

..--Previous Faults--->
Active Faults:
None
Logged Faults:
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
<-END Faults

..--Previous Faults--->
Active Faults:
None
Logged Faults:
012:Pump fail monitor line
035:Rear Right out valve open circuit
040:Pump relay open circuit

 

How long ago did you do the Option B modification? Did you replace the shuttle valve O rings? I am asking because if you did not do that that may be where your 114 fault lies. If you did it and it has been a long time, those new O rings wear out out. I have all the gear to do the Option B for a second time after the initial one lasted 100K. I bought the Flacon Works Kit with the O rings.
https://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales...roducts_id=190

 

I have no advice on the pump faults.

Before you go replacing the hub, please understand that a great many wheel speed sensor (WSS) faults are caused by failed connectors where the wheel speed sensor plugs into the wiring harness. The fix is to cut out both halves of the connector and splice the wires directly or replace the connector. This is what I did for a right-rear WSS fault 5½ years ago and all is well. I used connectors like those linked below, but others use simple 3M heat shrink butt connectors. Another option would be the newer solder seal connectors, also linked below.



Next, with respect to the shuttle valve switch (SVS) fault, Josh Salas, the originator of the SVS Option B fix in the Land Rover Forums, had his Option B fix fail a year or two after he performed it. In his case he traced the problem to a failed ground where he connected one of the two wires under an A/C line using a ring connector. I suggest you try scratching around wherever your Option B wiring is grounded to see if that cures the fault. I had the same thing happen with my truck.

Good luck, and please update us as you pursue addressing these faults.

 

We kept getting random 3 amigos during nearly 2+ years of ownership. The option B mod was our first upgrade before putting it into daily driving action. Head scratcher for a while.

It was originally maybe every 3-5 months they would come on. We'd clear them the and be good. About a month ago it kept coming back every couple days.

After verifying good connections I pulled the shuttle valves to find the wiring insulation between valves was deteriorating, likely causing a short. Pulled the shuttle valves off of one of our parts rigs and put it back on the road. Been good ever since.

would have found it sooner if I wasn't too lazy to pull the abs pump and check it out the first time the amigos came on.

 

No one is pulling or replacing the shuttle valves. It's the shuttle valve switches that get removed to do Option B.

 

Forgive me....the switches....and their wiring that was falling apart

 

I did not have any fluid in the switches, so I did not replace the o rings. given it is so intermittent, I am incline to think it is electric. I will try hard wiring the connections on the rear speed sensor. When I disconnected it to inspect, it appears the faults are more prevalent, might be my imagination.

I check the ground, but I am reasonably certain it still good.