Hey guys,

I just ran the ABS Amigo on my disco and came up with these errors. it looks like it didn't clear anything since the lights are still on, but this is what showed up.

Any input?

-----ABS Amigo Box V1 RSW Solutions LLC Copyright 2010-----
|* The information provided is without warranty of any kind.*|
|* IN NO EVENT SHALL RSW Solutions BE LIABLE FOR ANY LOSS OR*|
|* INJURY OR DAMAGES resulting from or connected to use of *|
|* this Information or Product. YOU HEREBY WAIVE ANY AND ALL*|
|* CLAIMS AGAINST RSW Solutions ARISING OUT OF YOUR USE OF *|
|* THIS INFORMATION OR PRODUCT. *|
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1.--Current Faults---->
Active Faults:
None
Logged Faults:
None
<-END Faults
------------------------------------------------------------
* *
------------------------------------------------------------
..--Previous Faults--->
Active Faults:
064:Front Right sensor electric fail
Logged Faults:
064:Front Right sensor electric fail
<-END Faults
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* *
------------------------------------------------------------
..--Previous Faults--->
Active Faults:
None
Logged Faults:
021:Engine PWM signal bad
045:Rear Left sensor output low
Front Right Sensor Bad Output
Front Left Sensor Bad Output
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
<-END Faults
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* *
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Looks like you are ready for 2 speed sensors and Josh's Module rebuild, both A and B.
How mechanical are you?

 

Oh man.. I replaced the right sensor a few weeks back, and checked the left one but It looked ok..

So I'm either in for lots of work or lots of money..

 

Is there a huge difference or can I just pull a fuse and turn off the lights for now?

 

Why would you want to turn off the lights, you will still have the problem, and yes you can just live with it.

 

Well I was going to turn it off for now, and maybe just buy a new abs module and deal with it in a little while.

I just replaced the right sensor, and checked the left one and made sure all four were cleaned up real nice. Is there a fuse or something for the sensors?

 

Unless you want to drop $3000 on a new module, go with the rebuild. $150 and a half a day's work, heck the hardest part is bleeding the brakes to get air out of the system. The instructions are literally step buy step so if you can tell which end of the screw driver to stick into a screw you can do it yourself. With bleeding brakes start at the RR wheel, RL, FL and finally FR wheel, also make sure to keep the fluid reservoir full because if you let it run dry air gets into the system and you have to start all over again.

 

Ok, you got me there. Where do I find the instructions and parts for this? Usually i'm up for such tasks, but I have been super busy, and am dying to relax.. You guys are a great help though.

 

Hello Bloody (and everyone)-
Thanks for everyone's awesome advice on this forum.

On my 2002 DII, I recently experienced near-complete depletion of the brake fluid reservoir (obviously have a leak, I believe its the master cylinder where I see liquid evidence -- btw, I have had the 3 Amigos problem for most of the last 2 years and have lived with it until now).

I am going to take it to my local mech to replace the master cyl, but in the meantime, I basically have no brakes for driving it there. The brake pedal sounds and feels like a wet sponge and pushes all the way to the floor (almost certanly air in the system due to previously empty reservoir). I re-filled the reservoir, but I now need to bleed the brakes before I can drive it to my mechanic.

I've never done this job, but I've been reading up on it. In the RAVE it instructs the bleed order to be: RF, LF, RR, LR. I notice that you recommend starting with the rears, then the fronts (opposite of the RAVE).

I have read other forums outlining the basic premise of starting the bleeds at the wheels that are "furthest" from the master cylinder (makes sense) and working forward (as you also recommend) -- HOWEVER, that is inconsistent with the Land Rover RAVE manual.

Which is the correct sequence? Should I not follow LR's recommendation?

Thanks in advance!