i dont understand this 3k resistor to ground. what is the thinking for that procedure?

i did option B, and put ground on bolt to chasis on that clip, but still get 3 lights.

 

in the "normal" mode of operation if the brakes are not applied there is 3000 ohms of resistance to ground through the shuttle valve switches , this sets up the correct signal to the control module . If one of the switches is open you will get a different resistance and if both are open you will get another reading . its about 3000, 2000,or 1000 ohms . If there is an "open " circuit you will get the three lights on . I do not have a code reader so I used this method to decide if it needed the modification to the mod. Ivan

 

if 3000 ohm resistance is needed, why cant we place a resistor inline to match that resistance? especially if we dont want abs/traction control etc?

putting an inline resistor is easy, splice and sodder, but i just dont want abs/traction control never use it at all.

that is probably why many driver find that the module is failing, from lack of use.....

 

You can program the SLABS ECU to NOT have the ABS/TC function using a hawkeye. Not really sure why you'd not want to have it. A DII is not built as tough as the DI where you could spin a wheel while being stuck all day long. The SLABS function is very integral to the design of the DII. it's picks up the signal of the spinning wheel, compares it to the average speed of the other 3, and uses the TC to "brake" that wheel, thus sending power to the other wheel getting you out. Its a great system especially for those without locking center diff. Not to mention the negative impact of destroying trails and off road sites.

And remember, this write up clears and fixes ONE fault. That's why some may still have the lights even after the fix.

Doing this repair without reading the codes is like shooting at a target in the dark...plus if the lights appear after, you won't know if you messed up the repair or in fact it's another issue.

 

We all complain about how subpar our brakes feel compared to other cars. Imagine the reduced brake performance in emegencies when you don't have the help of abs in slowing down ur 4klbs tank. Not to mention the electronic brake distribution working for you.

You could modify the DII to not have SLABS function but I would only do that if you could install a more powerful master cylinder. And traditional proportioning valve, delete abs modulator block, etc...

 

the irony is that all abs systems are designed to be used for drivers that have limited driving ability and "slam" on the brakes to the floor. in reality, most of us "men drivers" actually pump the brakes slightly by nature going down a hill, so in effect this is exactly what abs systems are designed to mimic....a pumping pumping, even while you depress the brake pedal completely and dont let up.

so in reality the vast majority of the time the abs never gets used.

i have this in another older car and the abs is problematic...

a tech told me that without use.....seals dry up, etc and the system doesnt work properly....

i do understand what you mean by traction control though....when one wheel slips, i get a funny tapping noise and tc light comes on....i also get that over hard bumps too, probably b/c the system senses that one tire in air is spining out of sync with others...

lets face it, 99% of disco drivers dont ever offroad.....atleast those that live in urban areas.

these systems just dont age well when you add sensors/electrics etc to an ecu....

i personally think they are problematic...

the only feature i like with an suv, is some sort of gear brake to help going down a steep hill without glazing your brakes.

 

these are my codes thanks to don...i replaced front pads, shuttle valve and did option b, one valve was also leaking fluid.

i guess i just drive around and wait for lights to appear again....



1.--Current Faults---->
Active Faults:
None
Logged Faults:
073:Front Left out valve short to supply
Front Right Sensor Bad Output
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
<-END Faults

 

I just completed the option "B" mod. No more three amigos lights and no more codes. I used the ABS Amigo code reader to read and reset. So far so good.

 

My Three Amigos story may save someone some time and make things a little easier to understand. It is not always just the switch. I started having intermittent amigos visits about a year ago. They would always go away after shutting off ignition and restarting. Read all the threads on the repair and was prepared to fix the problem myself. Had someone read codes and showed 11.4: shuttle valve switch electrical failure. Even though I read the Option B a dozen times I only thought it was the switch. I did not have an ohm meter at the time so I ordered a new switch and replaced it without doing the straight wiring of SVS. I threw away the old switch figuring the new one would solve the problem. It never occurred to me that it could be the circuit board or anything other than a bad switch.
Of course the 3 Amigo's made their ugly return. Then things went worse. Screwed again. I took the new switch back off and straight wired it as shown in Option B. Still not having an ohm meter I hooked it in series to a 120 volt light bulb to test. It lit up and I pushed both switch separately and then together and the light dimmed and shone depending upon which switch I pushed. I notice the switches were getting warm but never considered there could be resistors or other electrical components in switch. Re-installed in ABS block. Started up car Amigo's came on and never went off. Double screwed. Next thing: buy a cheap $7 ohm meter on e-bay and order another switch online.
As soon as they arrived I tested new switch, worked exactly as demonstrated in ABS modulator fix. Then I removed the switch from ABS and tested and realized that I must have burned out replaced switch with the light bulb test. Kaput. This time I took new switch did the straight wire through of SVS as demonstrated in article, re-installed switch and the 3 Amigo's are gone for good. The moral of the story is never assume anything. Though it cost me two switches and an Ohm meter ($175) it was still way cheaper that the shop at close to a grand. If I had just taken the orginal switch off and did the straight wiring as demonstrated in the article it would have been fixed a long time ago for much less money. I had fun doing it and learned a lot. Utimately the Three Amigo's are gone. Woopee.

 

The 3 Amigos are making me feel like El Guapo. I just picked up my Disco from the auction a couple days ago and these 3 guys were hanging out in the truck. I'm not very mechanically inclined but with these stellar instructions, I feel like a master mechanic (hopefully I still feel this way after I try the fix).

The brake light is also on, the brake pedal goes pretty far down and when I try to stop the truck pulls hard left. I remember reading on this thread about smooshy brakes. My Mechanic says it needs a master cylinder but hes not the sharpest knife in the block.

I know I have to get rid of my 3 latin friends but my question is, could they in anyway be the cause of my brake problem and not their neighbor, Mr. Master Cylinder?