ABS MODULATOR FIX (NO more SVS fault)
#171
#172
Just wanted to chime in and say that I did the procedure a few weeks ago, and the three amigos seem to be gone (800 miles).
I vaguely understand what I did, but what is the original underlying problem that I solved here? Is it a bad connector at the green and yellow wire where it plugs in?
I vaguely understand what I did, but what is the original underlying problem that I solved here? Is it a bad connector at the green and yellow wire where it plugs in?
#173
Just did the bypass on mine...still had the 3 amigos. But after the bypass when I started the disco the HD and TC go off for a second and then return, instead of staying on from key turn to starting. Figured I'd effected something since the lights were reacting differently. Long story short, went and had codes cleared and all the lights are off now...except for the low fuel light, that one never seems to go away.
#174
*%!#3 Amigos gone forever!
Hi fellow D2 owners,
I live in Brisbane Aust & we have many LR groups in this country. One of the most discussed issues across all groups is the dreaded 3 Amigos.
I bought my D2 TD5 (most common in Aust/NZ due to fuel price) in 2000 and this issue raised it's dirty head during first year & up to 3 years after.
LR Stealers (you may call them Dealers) replaced sensors, wiring harnesses & still ramdomly fault lights would appear.
I am an Electronics Engineer & decided that I would solve this or change vehicle.
Did my research thru www.aulro.com.au and other user groups in UK & decided that the Wabco ABS modulator was at the root of the problems. I found Falconworks replacement switch assy for modulator was the best available, removed modulator & installed their kit which includes improved seals to prevent brake fluid from destroying the new switch assy. You don't need to totally dismantle modulator to install this kit.
This was done in 2007 and I have been Amigo free ever since.
I hope this helps you guys.
Cheers,
brewski
I live in Brisbane Aust & we have many LR groups in this country. One of the most discussed issues across all groups is the dreaded 3 Amigos.
I bought my D2 TD5 (most common in Aust/NZ due to fuel price) in 2000 and this issue raised it's dirty head during first year & up to 3 years after.
LR Stealers (you may call them Dealers) replaced sensors, wiring harnesses & still ramdomly fault lights would appear.
I am an Electronics Engineer & decided that I would solve this or change vehicle.
Did my research thru www.aulro.com.au and other user groups in UK & decided that the Wabco ABS modulator was at the root of the problems. I found Falconworks replacement switch assy for modulator was the best available, removed modulator & installed their kit which includes improved seals to prevent brake fluid from destroying the new switch assy. You don't need to totally dismantle modulator to install this kit.
This was done in 2007 and I have been Amigo free ever since.
I hope this helps you guys.
Cheers,
brewski
#175
Well my Wifes DII has had intermittent amigos for the past year or so. The write up seemed to make this a fairly difficult (lots of steps) job, so I was a little leery of doing it, but I bit the bullet and took care of it yesterday. It was almost laughably easy for method 2. Unless you are replacing the shuttle valve seals there is no need to take off the 6 allen head screws. Whole job took about an hour and a half, but if I had to do it again it could probably be done in an hour. We've probably got 100 miles on it since yesterday and no lights, and will be putting another 100 or so on it this afternoon. You are a gentleman and a scholar, and I, along with the entire LR community cannot thank you enough for making this nightmare so easy to deal with. THANK YOU!!!!!
#177
Ohm scale setting check helped. Thanks
I
1) I was a little anxious when I was not getting 3.00 reading expected at my connector with no plungers pushed. Make sure if you use a multimeter like the one pictured in the notes that you use the 20K setting on the Ohms scale. At settings 200 & 2000 I was only getting a reading of "1" with no plungers pushed. Readings now of 3.00 with no plungers pushed, 2.00 with one plunger pushed, and finally 1.01 with both plungers pushed once I selected the 20K setting. I know we are actually reading 3000, 2000, & 1000 ohms, so it would make sense to use the 20K setting, so these numbers would show up, but FYI for those who may not use a multimeter a lot.
2)
1) I was a little anxious when I was not getting 3.00 reading expected at my connector with no plungers pushed. Make sure if you use a multimeter like the one pictured in the notes that you use the 20K setting on the Ohms scale. At settings 200 & 2000 I was only getting a reading of "1" with no plungers pushed. Readings now of 3.00 with no plungers pushed, 2.00 with one plunger pushed, and finally 1.01 with both plungers pushed once I selected the 20K setting. I know we are actually reading 3000, 2000, & 1000 ohms, so it would make sense to use the 20K setting, so these numbers would show up, but FYI for those who may not use a multimeter a lot.
2)
Thanks I changed the multimeter and finally got the correct readout
#179
Just to calrify, I've had the 3 amigos on and off for a while now - but it's still intermittent.
If I start the car with my foot on the brake a certain way, the lights don't come on. Sometimes certain braking again triggers the lights. I HAVE had the shuttle valve open circuit codes in the past.
Is the #2 fix ONLY for people who have had the code continuously, or does it only sometimes get an open fault? I'd say about 15% of the time it will start without the 3 amigos.
If I start the car with my foot on the brake a certain way, the lights don't come on. Sometimes certain braking again triggers the lights. I HAVE had the shuttle valve open circuit codes in the past.
Is the #2 fix ONLY for people who have had the code continuously, or does it only sometimes get an open fault? I'd say about 15% of the time it will start without the 3 amigos.